But we know you're cheap, I bet Harbor Freight will get you covered soon. it's the life, power and capacity the battery has that makes it worth it. Then add BS, like 4 days at a dealer or not trusting your car to start, having to top them off with a charger every month. And no it won't shorten the life of the battery. They have BMS's built in, you can even monitor them with an app. If I decide to get the RedArc system I will probably get two. New tech is expensive. But you can take it out and put it in the next truck. It doesn't have to stay. Cost of the lifetime ownership is close to the same overall cost of multiple battery replacements. Pay now or pay later? They are game changers in RV's with solar. I put myself through college installing car stereos and people thought $300.00 Optima battery was crazy priced when they first came out. Most people thought AGM was a flash in the pan. Look where that ended up, oh ya in your Ford.
Yes, you need a AGM ready battery charger if you want to full charge a discharged AGM. They have a different charge profile. Most lead acid charges will tell you a dead AGM 40% or less are not good or at a fault because of their low voltage state. Back before smart chargers we use to put a full lead acid jumper cabled to the dead AGM and put the dumb charger on the lead acid to trick the charger.
Yup, I'm cheap too. But I build batteries. There is nothing in that chemistry that tells me it's a good idea to push 17C through it.
I was pretty stoked until I watched the video. He's saying stuff that is an absolute no-go with LFP chemistry. It could be he's on the business side of the equation but the internal engineers should have stopped him from saying silly shit.
The only way I can think of doing that is having either a type of capacitor inline or solinoid integrated in the case. Even doing something like a 96V battery with a high current solid state stepdown converter but the cost.. ouch.
Even in my 'A+' cells, (basically the lowest ir and I match them in 48V arrays), I'm not recommending anything more than 3C discharge for exceptions.
Here is my opinion on LFP chemistry. I absolutely love it. Not as much energy density as LiPo or Li-Ion but it's super stable, not prone to fire or explosion (at all) and in general it's charge cycle rating starts around 1000 cycles for 'B' grade cells. Mine are rated over 4000 (I think 8000) cycles. That's literally decades of use. For a starter? Not at that size.
I made some 24V 280AH batteries that I would trust to reconfigure as a starter battery but that's just over 100 pounds and the size of two type 47 AGMs.
That all said, I would recommend LFP for the "house battery" and either AGM for the truck or have whomever installs your RedArc to lookup making a hybrid setup where an AGM or semi-solid state battery (tiny) is your discharge (0 degrees F, 30 seconds and doesn't drop below 7.3? V. Think motorcycle battery size) and LFP manages the normal power fluctuations for the truck. and recharges the starter battery.
if you're going to ignore me on the above, at least check out Dakota Lithium in your search. They offer that type of battery too and I think they make very good quality batteries.
