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Battery Drain

CMar

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Location
Tampa
Current Ride
2022 Ford Tremor
Current Ride #2
2021 Ford Bronco Black Diamond 4dr
Is anyone else getting severe battery drain lately?

I figured my recently installed dash cam hardwire kit was the reason, but after pulling that I am still losing a fully charged, brand new battery overnight.

I got an update (shown below) after installing the dash cam that seems to be closer to the start date of my problem.

In case this matters, on the first completely dead battery requiring a jump, I did get stuck in a boot cycle.

Everything else seems to work perfect. No error messages, check engine lights, or garden gnomes caught on camera messing with it.

Outside of the 3/36k warranty period.
 

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Have you had your battery checked?
OEM Ford batteries can he hit or miss.
Also, if your dash cam is wired up to your battery and you have parking mode on, your dash cam can drain the battery quicker than you think.
Have you considered an optional dash cam battery to power the camera while the vehicle isn’t running?

Yes, they’re pricey but it might be worth the investment.
 
Do you normally leave the keys in the vehicle?
 
Thanks for the replies.

I wrote my local dealer and he gave me a call this morning. I apparently have a slew of issues. The APIM does not appear to be turning off, possible BCM failure/failing, the inverters blown (i think we had discussed this issue last time and planned to resolve when I got back in town), and oddly the catalytic converter is giving a message of some sort (on his end). He also stated to go back to a motorcraft battery which from what I've read here and the other forums doesn't seem to be a solution.

Trying to find a dealer to work on this but it looks like it'll have to get punted to two weeks down the road. Local here can't get me in until next week (we leave this Friday) and our next stop doesn't have a dealer close by (2 to 3 hours away from destination).

As for the dash cam wiring, I've pulled it and am still having battery drain. The dash cam battery for parking mode does sound like a good option. The only electrical add on I have after that are my a pillar lights.
 
Update: did the soft APIM reset (power and seek/forward) last night. Issue still remains. Doing the other reset (disconnecting the battery and touching the cables together to get a complete discharge) later on.

Dealer appointment is set for Monday.
 
You really don’t have to disconnect the battery.
Just do a Master Reset which can be done on the center stack screen.
 
You really don’t have to disconnect the battery.
Just do a Master Reset which can be done on the center stack screen.
Are you referring to the factory reset option?
 
Are you referring to the factory reset option?
Correct.
A Master Reset not the soft reboot of pressing the power and track forward button.
 
Thanks. I'll give it a shot.
 
Tried the master reset option Tuesday night and tried the disconnect/complete discharge last night. Neither worked.

I will update after the dealership diagnoses/fixes it.
 
oof. thought software updates were designed to help make your vehicle better over time :ROFLMAO:

wonder if they reset some threshold for starting and its higher than the normal operating voltage or something. smells like a bad update if it was fine before.
 
oof. thought software updates were designed to help make your vehicle better over time :ROFLMAO:

wonder if they reset some threshold for starting and its higher than the normal operating voltage or something. smells like a bad update if it was fine before.
It may be kinda like the Sync Update on my '19 Raptor that totally goofed up the Navigation!
🥸
 
Yea, I thought the same. Very much considering turning off the auto updates. If it's all working fine why do I need to update lol.

Dealer pointed to two dates, one in June and one in July. All predate what I've done recently except for my lights. Which worked fine for months without any drain.
 
One last update before the dealer appointment tomorrow.

1. Last night I put the truck on a 10 amp charger. Still got the sleep mode notice despite the charger showing it was maintaining full battery charge.

2. Tonight, about 20 minutes after locking it up, I walked out and noticed the center stack audio buttons illuminated. Terrible Pic below.

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3. I checked the wiring for my pillar lights and did not observe any damage to insulation or signs of a bad connection. Lights worked fine.

4. I pulled the mirror dash cam and all wiring out both to inspect and so this could not be pointed to as the cause (hardwire kits been disconnected for over a week I believe). All wiring looked fine.

5. Checked for any warm fuses or components this morning and did not notice anything. Pulled the 200/400 inverter case and that was also cool.

Will update when I know more but wanted to put this up, especially the second item, in case anyone has dealt with exactly this before.
 
One last update before the dealer appointment tomorrow.

1. Last night I put the truck on a 10 amp charger. Still got the sleep mode notice despite the charger showing it was maintaining full battery charge.

2. Tonight, about 20 minutes after locking it up, I walked out and noticed the center stack audio buttons illuminated. Terrible Pic below.

View attachment 40779

3. I checked the wiring for my pillar lights and did not observe any damage to insulation or signs of a bad connection. Lights worked fine.

4. I pulled the mirror dash cam and all wiring out both to inspect and so this could not be pointed to as the cause (hardwire kits been disconnected for over a week I believe). All wiring looked fine.

5. Checked for any warm fuses or components this morning and did not notice anything. Pulled the 200/400 inverter case and that was also cool.

Will update when I know more but wanted to put this up, especially the second item, in case anyone has dealt with exactly this before.
Ghost in the machine.
Looking forward to reading about what your dealer finds out.
 
"Good" and bad news.

Ford is aware of the issue, even putting out a TSB (TSB 23-2427) for it. Apparently my ac compressor clutch is always engaged. I visually checked and it seems whether the AC is on or not, the compressor is indeed engaged. I did not check for cycling while on, just a check when turned on and when turned off. The repair requires a new AC clutch and BCM (as well as it being programmed).

This repair was estimated at $2600, not including their diagnostic fee of 1.5 hours of labor @ $210/hour.

At this time I declined repairs until I get back home and my local dealer can deal with it. I'm happy to have an idea what the issue is but a bit disappointed to hit a repair bill this large right at the end of the typical powertrain warranty period.

For folks that are on the fence about buying ESP coverage, do it if it's available in your state.

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Certainly makes me rethink getting the ESP. I have three months to decide.
 
ESP is a absolute no brainer unless you a) love throwing away money or b) are getting rid of the truck as soon as the original warranty expires. I absolutely cannot fathom not buying the ESP, especially with the great deal from @zach@granger
 
ESP is a absolute no brainer unless you a) love throwing away money or b) are getting rid of the truck as soon as the original warranty expires. I absolutely cannot fathom not buying the ESP, especially with the great deal from @zach@granger
It's not available in Florida unfortunately. I tried.
 

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