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Let’s Talk Diff Drops

High_Country

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2022 Oxford White 401A
“Diff drops” (aka front differential drops) are popular for lowering the front differential a bit to return the front CV angles closer to ‘normal’ after a lift.
At face value it seems dumb to lift a vehicle (if you’re after ground clearance) only to lower the diff down. BUT, I’m curious if anyone has explored this option on the Tremor.
Perhaps there’s enough clearance between the diff and the skid plate to lower it 1/4-1/2” and keep the factory skid in place, thereby NOT losing any ground clearance and regaining some CV angle.
Anyone looked into this yet?
 
“Diff drops” (aka front differential drops) are popular for lowering the front differential a bit to return the front CV angles closer to ‘normal’ after a lift.
At face value it seems dumb to lift a vehicle (if you’re after ground clearance) only to lower the diff down. BUT, I’m curious if anyone has explored this option on the Tremor.
Perhaps there’s enough clearance between the diff and the skid plate to lower it 1/4-1/2” and keep the factory skid in place, thereby NOT losing any ground clearance and regaining some CV angle.
Anyone looked into this yet?
I asked my local tire shop guy about this and he said it’s a lot harder to do on fords vs other brands. That’s about as far as I got with it until someone more ambitions figures it out for me.
 
If you look at the front diff, its held in by 3 mounting points. It doesn't look like there is enough room to just drop it an inch or so and still be able to fabricate brackets or clear the rear crossmember. You may be able to ream the holes out the 1/4" you are looking for and weld washers at the new position. That would be super sketchy as this is the frame we are talking about. Real diff drops don't touch this part of the frame. 3.5" of lift on a regular F-150 and probably 2.5" on a Tremor puts the CV's really steep. Too steep in my opinion. That's why you see 4" and up kits cut the rear crossmember out of the way to make room for the driveline and enough room to actually make the brackets easy to manufacture and install. The best fix other than a real diff drop lift is to pony up the money for RCV high angle CV's and axles.
 
At least on Toyotas, a diff drop can cause more harm than good. It can reduce wear on your CVs but one good hit OffRoad and it can break the diff mounts because they are not as strong with spacers. That will put you in a world of hurt.

Best to just keep your CV angles reasonable, main reason my Autospring spacers are coming out this afternoon and being replaced by Halolifts
 
At least on Toyotas, a diff drop can cause more harm than good. It can reduce wear on your CVs but one good hit OffRoad and it can break the diff mounts because they are not as strong with spacers. That will put you in a world of hurt.

Best to just keep your CV angles reasonable, main reason my Autospring spacers are coming out this afternoon and being replaced by Halolifts
Can’t wait for a report with some measurements and such on the HaloLift kit. I’ll likely be right behind ya for all the same reasons.
 
Can’t wait for a report with some measurements and such on the HaloLift kit. I’ll likely be right behind ya for all the same reasons.
Working on it right now. Will keep ya updated

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As far as I know, unless you do something like a BDS lift, getting higher angle axles and keeping the lift readonable is the only way to go. Unfortunately, those are close to the same cost.
 
I appreciate the replies. I’ll have to get under there and check it out closer and see what you guys are talking about. Sounds like a simple diff drop is a no-go on the tremors.
 
I appreciate the replies. I’ll have to get under there and check it out closer and see what you guys are talking about. Sounds like a simple diff drop is a no-go on the tremors.

Take a look at the install instructions for the 4" lift kits and you'll see what's required to move the diff lower. Basically, the rear crossmember is in the way, as it has to get cutout to move the diff down. Suppose you could make brackets that just lower the diff and not the control arm mounting points to make a 3" lift easy on the CVs...but by that time you're basically doing the 4" lift.
 

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