ETN
Well-known member
Quick write-up on door speaker replacements and powered sub addition, on a budget, for those with a six-speaker (four door plus tweeters on front pillars), non-B&O stereo:
I didn't like the sound of the factory stereo. Was a bit muddy, with highs lacking especially, and lows non-impressive. After watching a few Youtube reviews and comparisons, I opted for Rockford Fosgate door speakers, as they seemed to reproduce high's/vocals nicely. I then added a Rockville powered 10" sub behind the rear seat (way cheaper than Kicker, etc), to round out the lows (I personally don't enjoy a ton of mids - I enjoy a warm sound, with clear highs and punchy, responsive lows). I spent about $400 exactly for all material, and probably about 6-7 hours total labor (the last time I messed with any car audio was almost 30yrs ago).
Materials:
Front door speakers, Rockford Fosgate R169X3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVG4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Rear door speakers, Rockford Fosgate R165X3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWCM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Front door brackets, Metra 82-5606: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTSVYGK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Rear door brackets, Metra 82-5605: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTSVXWK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Door harness adapters, Red Wolf 72-5602: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH9M9HB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Rockville powered sub, RW10CA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
SKAR Audio 8ga wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCFCMM6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Alex Tech wire loom: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCDTFL2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Door speakers went in first. Good video here for front door panel disassembly, and here for rear door. I found out after removing panels, that I needed aftermarket brackets to raise speakers from door cutout's and to match the screw holes. You have to remove the inner 5.25" tabs from the rear brackets, and if using the screws that come with speakers, you'll have to cut the ends off with a Dremel after mounting speakers to brackets, to recess the screws, or they'll interfere with door cutout's. Or just use shorter screws. You'll also have to notch the base of the brackets with snips, for harness adapter wires to exit.
OEM rear speaker compared to aftermarket. Note the difference in the magnets.. Whew..
Notched bracket base for wire exit, compared to OEM integrated speaker/bracket with harness adapter.
Rear speaker installed, with aftermarket bracket and connected harness adapter.
Door speakers probably took about two hours total, maybe less. I would set a box or chair or something beside door, to set the panel on, while you replace speakers.
Next came the powered sub. I installed power wire first - was the most difficult part of install, for me, trying to get through the rubber grommet in firewall. I went through the one on the driver's side, northwest of the brake pedal, per online recommendations. Can see the loomed power wire coming through below-
Firewall grommet.
Removed the driver's side kick panel and sill panels, and fished wire through with coat hanger. As advised by @natef, a 17' power wire is just BARELY long enough to go from battery to grommet to rear seat. I placed sub in middle of truck/rear seats, and the wire has no slack in it.
Next ran ground to an EOM ground screw behind rear passenger seat (just peel carpet back from top-right and you'll see it).
Then remote sub knob fished from rear to front, around/above pedals, and mounted with double-sided tape near the USB ports-
Remote sub knob.
I tapped (soldered) wires in rear pillars and just ran under rear sill plates. Wiring diagram can be found here. Retape and tuck.
Can see where I'd already starting cutting insulation on brown/yellow.
The sub fit snugly behind seat, I didn't even mess with securing-
Compact powered sub.
For the time and money spent, turned out nicely. My days of loud/brain-rattling music are over, especially with kids usually in truck. I just wanted something clear and full, and after tuning the sub, this was the result.
Cheers,
ETN
I didn't like the sound of the factory stereo. Was a bit muddy, with highs lacking especially, and lows non-impressive. After watching a few Youtube reviews and comparisons, I opted for Rockford Fosgate door speakers, as they seemed to reproduce high's/vocals nicely. I then added a Rockville powered 10" sub behind the rear seat (way cheaper than Kicker, etc), to round out the lows (I personally don't enjoy a ton of mids - I enjoy a warm sound, with clear highs and punchy, responsive lows). I spent about $400 exactly for all material, and probably about 6-7 hours total labor (the last time I messed with any car audio was almost 30yrs ago).
Materials:
Front door speakers, Rockford Fosgate R169X3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HVG4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Rear door speakers, Rockford Fosgate R165X3: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BF6HWCM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Front door brackets, Metra 82-5606: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTSVYGK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Rear door brackets, Metra 82-5605: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BTSVXWK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Door harness adapters, Red Wolf 72-5602: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QH9M9HB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
Rockville powered sub, RW10CA: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019Z3R582?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
SKAR Audio 8ga wiring kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCFCMM6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Alex Tech wire loom: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCDTFL2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Door speakers went in first. Good video here for front door panel disassembly, and here for rear door. I found out after removing panels, that I needed aftermarket brackets to raise speakers from door cutout's and to match the screw holes. You have to remove the inner 5.25" tabs from the rear brackets, and if using the screws that come with speakers, you'll have to cut the ends off with a Dremel after mounting speakers to brackets, to recess the screws, or they'll interfere with door cutout's. Or just use shorter screws. You'll also have to notch the base of the brackets with snips, for harness adapter wires to exit.
OEM rear speaker compared to aftermarket. Note the difference in the magnets.. Whew..
Notched bracket base for wire exit, compared to OEM integrated speaker/bracket with harness adapter.
Rear speaker installed, with aftermarket bracket and connected harness adapter.
Door speakers probably took about two hours total, maybe less. I would set a box or chair or something beside door, to set the panel on, while you replace speakers.
Next came the powered sub. I installed power wire first - was the most difficult part of install, for me, trying to get through the rubber grommet in firewall. I went through the one on the driver's side, northwest of the brake pedal, per online recommendations. Can see the loomed power wire coming through below-
Firewall grommet.
Removed the driver's side kick panel and sill panels, and fished wire through with coat hanger. As advised by @natef, a 17' power wire is just BARELY long enough to go from battery to grommet to rear seat. I placed sub in middle of truck/rear seats, and the wire has no slack in it.
Next ran ground to an EOM ground screw behind rear passenger seat (just peel carpet back from top-right and you'll see it).
Then remote sub knob fished from rear to front, around/above pedals, and mounted with double-sided tape near the USB ports-
Remote sub knob.
I tapped (soldered) wires in rear pillars and just ran under rear sill plates. Wiring diagram can be found here. Retape and tuck.
Can see where I'd already starting cutting insulation on brown/yellow.
The sub fit snugly behind seat, I didn't even mess with securing-
Compact powered sub.
For the time and money spent, turned out nicely. My days of loud/brain-rattling music are over, especially with kids usually in truck. I just wanted something clear and full, and after tuning the sub, this was the result.
Cheers,
ETN
Attachments
Last edited:
