Battery Questions - Maintenance and Jump

[arb_f150_11]

Apologies if this has been covered. I searched and didn't see a definitive response.

I am new to owning a truck, have had mostly sports cars. In the modern cars I've owned, I needed to hook up the battery to a tender if: 1) I did not drive it for a few days and 2) If my drives were frequent short trips over a week or so. There is so much running in the background on these cars that they have a parasitic drain and would throw fault codes erroneously if the battery was low.

I have some Nocco gear that is rated beefy enough to reuse.

A couple of basics for me: 1) Is this true on the Gen14 F150's - will the battery slowly drain if not driven and 2) Anything I need to be aware of in terms of the electronics so as not to fry or upset anything?

I am looking for exactly where to connect the negative clamp on a 2026. I believe there are few spots (although they are a bit nubby for the clamp).

I am not looking for a permanent pigtail install. I just want to use a Nocco Genius 10 I own with the clamps periodically.

Lots of information across forums on elegant pigtail installs and general reference to "don't connect to the negative terminal, find a solid unpainted connection point". Can someone smarter than me confirm the best location for the negative clamp?

Does the same apply for jump starting (or using the Nocco Boost products)?

Thanks

 

[CAMDENN]

Such a device isn’t needed.
If the vehicle isn’t driven for 2-3 weeks or more, it’ll automatically go into deep sleep mode and disconnect certain features of the vehicle to maintain the battery enough to start the vehicle.

Also, any short drive of 30 minutes to an hour is more than enough for the alternator to recharge the battery.

A word of caution about the OEM battery.
They’re not built as well as they used to be so its lifespan can be hit or miss. It’s not unusual for these batteries to die within a year or less so you definitely should think about replacing it with one from the aftermarket.

 

[Spamslurpee]

I often go two or three weeks without driving my truck and I haven't had any issues starting it when I need to.

 

[arb_f150_11]

Such a device isn’t needed.
If the vehicle isn’t driven for 2-3 weeks or more, it’ll automatically go into deep sleep mode and disconnect certain features of the vehicle to maintain the battery enough to start the vehicle.

Also, any short drive of 30 minutes to an hour is more than enough for the alternator to recharge the battery.

A word of caution about the OEM battery.
They’re not built as well as they used to be so its lifespan can be hit or miss. It’s not unusual for these batteries to die within a year or less so you definitely should think about replacing it with one from the aftermarket.

Thanks - good to know

 

[arb_f150_11]

A follow up question - if not needed for preventing parasitic drain, what about when programming with Forscan? I've seen reference that you need it connected while doing so. Might be in my future to get the adaptive headlights going and to kill Auto Stop Start.

 

[CAMDENN]

A follow up question - if not needed for preventing parasitic drain, what about when programming with Forscan? I've seen reference that you need it connected while doing so. Might be in my future to get the adaptive headlights going and to kill Auto

Specific changes via FORScan are relatively quick so there’s no need to connect anything to the battery to maintain a charge.

On the other hand, if you were to update all of the modules in the vehicle with FDRS, which sometimes can take many hours then yes, it would be advisable and recommend to connect some type of battery maintainer / charger during said process.

 

[TheWaterman]

A word of caution about the OEM battery.
They’re not built as well as they used to be so its lifespan can be hit or miss. It’s not unusual for these batteries to die within a year or less so you definitely should think about replacing it with one from the aftermarket.

Good advice and something folks with Ram's had/have issues with as well...myself included.

I eventually went with a bigger group Interstate AGM. Can't confirm if the F150 will allow the same larger group battery, though.

 

[zimm]

My OEM battery only lasted 2 years before remote start wouldn't work because the truck kept taking a nap.
The battery for the f150 diesel V6 is the next size up (H8). It fits right in. Costco sells the AGM for about $185. I did get the larger battery blanket from Ford because the stock size ripped trying to stretch over the larger battery.

 

[TheWaterman]

Don't worry about the battery blanket. Same thing on the Rams. I am convinced that they put that on to help the crappy battery they put in the truck in very cold weather. A higher end AGM shouldn't need it.

Another point: When the battery does go, do like you did, don't warranty it. Just go get a better H8.

Thank you for confirming the H8 fits, btw. I wasn't sure. When mine goes I'll put that in.

 

[zimm]

Also when replacing the battery, you need to do a BMS reset. There are youtubes on it. Otherwise it can over charge the new battery.

Here's the steps:
Battery upgrade: H8 and bigger blanket: KL3Z-10A687-C
To manually reset the F-150 BMS,
turn the ignition to the "on" position without starting the engine. Then, quickly flash the high beams five times, followed by pressing the brake pedal three times. The battery light on the dash should flash three times to confirm the reset is complete.

 

[TheWaterman]

Also when replacing the battery, you need to do a BMS reset. There are youtubes on it. Otherwise it can over charge the new battery.

Here's the steps:
Battery upgrade: H8 and bigger blanket: KL3Z-10A687-C
To manually reset the F-150 BMS,
turn the ignition to the "on" position without starting the engine. Then, quickly flash the high beams five times, followed by pressing the brake pedal three times. The battery light on the dash should flash three times to confirm the reset is complete.

Absolutely great info there. Would have never known. Thank you for sharing that.

 

[zimm]

Yup, any car with "smart charging" needs it. On BMW/Mini you have to get the battery replaced at the dealer and they have to program the car. At least ford has the secret button sequence to DIY it at home.

 

[CAMDENN]

Good advice and something folks with Ram's had/have issues with as well...myself included.

I eventually went with a bigger group Interstate AGM. Can't confirm if the F150 will allow the same larger group battery, though.

It can take an H8 battery but the OEM blanket won’t fit properly and the battery cables will be a bit tight.

With that being said, an upgraded H7 such as a DieHard Platinum will have better specs than the OEM battery, the fitment is perfect, and the specs aren’t that far off from an H8 battery.

 

[Rabidtastic]

if you dont drive it for a couple weeks and an update comes out before a deep sleep it can kill the battery/no start condition. usually i throw it on a tender when i get the "remote features disabled" notification if i'm not going anywhere in a few days. rare combo of conditions but i've had it happen a couple of times.

 

[arb_f150_11]

if you dont drive it for a couple weeks and an update comes out before a deep sleep it can kill the battery/no start condition. usually i throw it on a tender when i get the "remote features disabled" notification if i'm not going anywhere in a few days. rare combo of conditions but i've had it happen a couple of times.

Can you confirm where you connect the negative clamp?

 

[Cub Driver]

The Negative battery terminal clamp should be the one closest to the front of the truck and labeled with a -
The positive + has a red cover red and is located on the rear of the battery on these trucks.

 

[Bucket1]

I would definitely put one in. My brand new 23 the battery kept dying. Finally last year they replaced it. There's all kinds of electronics running especially for over-the-air updates. My truck stays plugged into a NOCO smart charger 24/7

 

[arb_f150_11]

The Negative battery terminal clamp should be the one closest to the front of the truck and labeled with a -
The positive + has a red cover red and is located on the rear of the battery on these trucks.

I was under the impression that you connect the positive to the positive terminal in the battery but the negative should connect to a grounded metal location and not the negative battery terminal. Just looking for confirmation on what constitutes a good negative connection point.

 

[Jason]

Good advice and something folks with Ram's had/have issues with as well...myself included.

I eventually went with a bigger group Interstate AGM. Can't confirm if the F150 will allow the same larger group battery, though.

I replaced my H6 factory with a H8. Fits perfectly fine. You will need to complete the battery reset when you change out the battery to allow the vehicle to update to the new battery specs.

 

[Cub Driver]

I was under the impression that you connect the positive to the positive terminal in the battery but the negative should connect to a grounded metal location and not the negative battery terminal. Just looking for confirmation on what constitutes a good negative connection point.

That is NOT correct.
You can jump start a vehicle in that manor but the trucks electrical system must have the negative harness attached to the NEGATIVE terminal. Otherwise, nothing will work. The trucks negative harness has a grounds strap(s) that connect to the chassis and engine throughout the system.