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[Preorders Open] Plug N' Play Upfitter Wiring Harness

that distribution block isn't 6 separate circuits. 2 of the ports are inputs that then get split into 2 outputs each.
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relative to your question regarding the 12 pin connector handling all 6 circuits on at once. that's a good question and something I'm gonna look into further. initial spec sheet data for the connector states 13 amps as the max current. i feel like there is something i don't understand about the ratings though since the connector is designed to take 12 14-18ga leads(or 6 pairs as in this case). that would lead one to believe that it should be able to handle the current rating of the wire it is housing. even one 14 ga wire at 0-4 ft in length can handle 15amps at 13.8v according to this table(https://www.offroaders.com/technical/12-volt-wiring-tech-gauge-to-amps/). so that would say that the 12 pin connector could barely handle just one lead that it is designed to carry.

the other thing that doesn't add up is that the upfitter wires themselves are 18ga max, and shouldn't even be an option for wire size for any of the upfitters.

so there is something that i'm missing in what really dictates the necessary gauge wire as well as how the connectors are rated. if you know the secret mathing involved in any of these, i'd love to learn.
Maybe the one in the picture, but I have seen them where each is their own. Plus you can get singles, and doubles that are flush mounted for box, firewall, rack installations. But that wouldn't be bad for splitting ditch lights with your harness. But it has you thinking. Yes, I wonder how that small 12 pin plug can handle 60 amp through it. Most may never have everything on at once, let alone without relays. But you added the ground that would make direct wiring a breeze. You should also make one without the ground for the pass through wires with the opposite end on them I just put Weather packs on until I find time to instal the Switch Pro, then I will hide the mess that is Up-Fitter Switches back in the depths of the fender and battery. I'm already tired of not having always on switches. Had to leave the ignition on tonight will I packed the truck and trailer for Moab. Phone wants to stay connected to the truck and ignition turns itself off leaving you in the dark. But I love your idea and would buy both sets if you sell them, just because I love clean wiring. Still waiting on your DD rock light install thread. Hint, Hint, that's still on my list of wants and things to do. Maybe a Black Friday sale with push me all in.
 
Maybe the one in the picture, but I have seen them where each is their own. Plus you can get singles, and doubles that are flush mounted for box, firewall, rack installations. But that wouldn't be bad for splitting ditch lights with your harness. But it has you thinking. Yes, I wonder how that small 12 pin plug can handle 60 amp through it. Most may never have everything on at once, let alone without relays. But you added the ground that would make direct wiring a breeze. You should also make one without the ground for the pass through wires with the opposite end on them I just put Weather packs on until I find time to instal the Switch Pro, then I will hide the mess that is Up-Fitter Switches back in the depths of the fender and battery. I'm already tired of not having always on switches. Had to leave the ignition on tonight will I packed the truck and trailer for Moab. Phone wants to stay connected to the truck and ignition turns itself off leaving you in the dark. But I love your idea and would buy both sets if you sell them, just because I love clean wiring. Still waiting on your DD rock light install thread. Hint, Hint, that's still on my list of wants and things to do. Maybe a Black Friday sale with push me all in.
What all do you want to know about the rock lights? The install is really straight forward.

Relative to the connector amperage rating. There’s definitely something relative to instantaneous current vs. continuous current. Diode dynamics sells their ss5 crosslink bars in up to 8 pods. The pro model of the ss5 draws 6 amps according to their spec sheet. A standard dt connector is rated for 14”3 amps. They claim to use a different series dt connector rated for 25 amps. 8 of the pro ss5s is 48 amps. I believe the spec they provide on amperage draw is at the time of turn on. The current draw then drops from that level as the lights warm up. IE. instantaneous vs. continuous current. So the continuous current draw of the lights is a good bit lower than their current draw at first turn on. This is why they can get away with a connector rated at 25amps.

And the amperage rating is driven by temperature capability of the plastic the connector is made of. So a higher instantaneous current won’t drive the temp up enough to melt the connector. A sustained current level is needed to heat up the connector enough to fail.

Still learning but this is where I’m at so far.
 
Maybe the one in the picture, but I have seen them where each is their own. Plus you can get singles, and doubles that are flush mounted for box, firewall, rack installations. But that wouldn't be bad for splitting ditch lights with your harness. But it has you thinking. Yes, I wonder how that small 12 pin plug can handle 60 amp through it. Most may never have everything on at once, let alone without relays. But you added the ground that would make direct wiring a breeze. You should also make one without the ground for the pass through wires with the opposite end on them I just put Weather packs on until I find time to instal the Switch Pro, then I will hide the mess that is Up-Fitter Switches back in the depths of the fender and battery. I'm already tired of not having always on switches. Had to leave the ignition on tonight will I packed the truck and trailer for Moab. Phone wants to stay connected to the truck and ignition turns itself off leaving you in the dark. But I love your idea and would buy both sets if you sell them, just because I love clean wiring. Still waiting on your DD rock light install thread. Hint, Hint, that's still on my list of wants and things to do. Maybe a Black Friday sale with push me all in.
also, i just spoke with Amphenol(connector manufacturer) and the current rating is per contact. so 13amps per contact. this would limit the 2 15 amp circuits to 13 amps max each.

for clarity, we will label each connection with a current rating(either the switch limit or the pin limit, whichever is the limiter).

i imagine the number of accessories that would sit between the 13-15 amp ratings is somewhat short. a separate relay could be used in these cases and the upfitter circuit would just trigger the relay.
 
Preorder page open.


Will take orders till the 24th and them
Place material orders. Lead time for delivery is 4-6 weeks from the 24th.

We will shoot for earlier if we can.
 
Order placed, looking forward to the solution. Thanks for making this.
 
Any chance you fellas can ship to Canada?
so the whole international shipping thing is a bit of a black box for me. i just did a rough estimate for the cost just for import duties and it came out to $86 Canadian just in import fees. not to mention the actual cost of shipping. it kind of blows my mind.

im sure my store software could setup the shipment for me, but would it actually be worth it to people?
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I don't even have any items to connect to the upfitters, yet somehow still want this as an excuse to start buying stuff. Damn you forum 🤑
 
Yes I would buy it. I am an electrician but thus is totally worth saving time in the long run. Especially if you end using all the upfitters.
 
Yes I would buy it. I am an electrician but thus is totally worth saving time in the long run. Especially if you end using all the upfitters.
well, orders are open, so feel free to place an order. :)
 
THIS IS AWESOME!! Just one possible question on solder vs crimp connection. Most installers recommend crimp for automotive applications; is there a possible version that could have this type of connector to the stubs that Ford cheaply provided?
 
THIS IS AWESOME!! Just one possible question on solder vs crimp connection. Most installers recommend crimp for automotive applications; is there a possible version that could have this type of connector to the stubs that Ford cheaply provided?
Users are welcome to use different connectors. Our intent is to minimize the required tooling for folks.

I’ve read about the concern with solder connections in automotive. The real concern there is if you don’t fasten the wires down and they are free to “flop” around. The solder joint is stiff and turns the wire after the joint into a “hinge” that after many cycles of flexing could break. This is really an issue for longer runs of wire that aren’t secured.

For this length of wire, I don’t see this being a concern. Especially for the majority of use cases.
 
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