Tuner for the '23 EcoBoost. JP4 Tuners?

[Bullitt1841]

Hadn't heard of JB4 piggyback before today. Definitely interested, a few questions-

-Does hardware remain plugged, in truck?
-Does it all go through OBDII, by pedal?
-Are transmission shifts rougher with the tune/maps then? Mine was rough for first few thousand miles, but has settled, and would rather not to revert to that.
-I tend to run 93, or sometimes the 90 octane 100% gas - any problems there?
-Do you literally just unplug if going in to dealer?

There is a box that contains the circuit board, which has an electrical harness that connects to the OBD2 port and various engine sensors. You'll basically route the harness wiring around the engine bay and zip tie most of it to keep it clean. Everything stays connected so that it can read sensors and make adjustments. There is adjustability of the boost curve (preset or custom maps), boost limits depending on each gear for better traction, map switching with a couple taps of the phone app, automatic datalogging, the list goes on and on. Once it's installed it is so easy to use and tinker with. All the info you should need is here:

JB4 Tuner for Ford F150 EcoBoost and Ford Raptor

This amazing plug and play tuner boasts dyno proven power gains of up to 100hp and 120wtq to the wheels on a stock vehicle. Made in the USA. 5 year warranty. Fast Free Shipping in USA.

burgertuning.com

The transmission should not really be affected. That might be the only positive with my 5 Star flash tune, but it's definitely not worth the money for an SCT device and custom flash. If I was to do it over (I'm running both a 5 Star flash and a JB4 at the same time), I would only do the JB4.

You can run whatever fuel you want, but always datalog to see how much boost that fuel can tolerate. This engine will audibly ping with too much boost and not enough octane. I always start with the lowest maps and look at the datalogs. It's just so easy with the phone app.

You can unplug when going to the dealer, but always safest to completely remove it. I don't think Ford and their dealerships are that picky or even knowledgeable, but I know that most of the German makers can and will void a warranty claim once they know you've messed with the ECU in any way. If you completely remove the JB4 before any warranty issue, the Ford dealers likely aren't going to pin it on a tune. Many people keep it installed and just unplug the OBD2 cable for a simple maintenance service visit, but it's up to you if you want to risk anything. Again, I haven't heard of any issues with the JB4 and Ford warranty claims. But I also haven't been scouring the forums like I used to years ago.

Another huge advantage to the JB4 is that you can remove it and sell it to someone whenever you want. There has never been any VIN locking or other BS that a lot of flash tuners implement.

I literally only buy turbo cars just so I can put a JB4 on them. That's how much fun it is to run. Nothing else on the market compares.

 

[ETN]

I literally only buy turbo cars just so I can put a JB4 on them. That's how much fun it is to run. Nothing else on the market compares.

Wow. Says a lot. Appreciate all of the info. Will probably go ahead and order today, and will read around about data logs and boost curves.

So does a harness pass through the firewall then, or is one component plugged into OBD, and then totally separate units in engine bay? Thanks again for all of the info.

 

[Bullitt1841]

Wow. Says a lot. Appreciate all of the info. Will probably go ahead and order today, and will read around about data logs and boost curves.

So does a harness pass through the firewall then, or is one component plugged into OBD, and then totally separate units in engine bay? Thanks again for all of the info.

Not a problem. It's a ton of fun to play with.

It's a single box with a multi-wire harness. I zip-tied my box next to the battery, then routed each cable/connector to the appropriate sensor. I'm pretty sure it's just one cable to the TMAP sensor (pre-throttle body boost sensor) and one cable to the MAP sensor (post-throttle body boost sensor). The third cable is just the one that routes through the firewall to the OBD2 port.

Make sure you order with the V3 harness. Feel free to post any questions or PM me with any install issues.

 

[ETN]

So, side question, is there any point to running boost while on highway? Have seen someone mention mapping Eco mode to map 0, for stock tune. Would that make sense for cruise?

Actually, also while towing - better mapped to 2 or 3, or better to run stock? In terms of gas, but also in terms of engine stress, thinking out longer term?

 

[Bullitt1841]

So, side question, is there any point to running boost while on highway? Have seen someone mention mapping Eco mode to map 0, for stock tune. Would that make sense for cruise?

Actually, also while towing - better mapped to 2 or 3, or better to run stock? In terms of gas, but also in terms of engine stress, thinking out longer term?

The JB4 will add boost over stock that is roughly proportional to pedal input. So if your map calls for 4 psi over stock at 100% pedal, it will add 2 psi over stock at 50% pedal. That might not be the exact formula, but that's basically what was confirmed to me by Terry Burger (the owner and tuner) a few years ago on another platform. So if you stay out of the pedal, you won't get any worse gas mileage. If you really want, you can put it into the valet/low boost map if you wanted to get "the best" mileage.

For towing, I would put it in a higher map so the boost and torque are available when you need it. I really don't think mileage will suffer enough to not be worth the extra torque. I also wouldn't worry about engine stress or longevity as long as you're running enough octane and doing your regular maintenance. Also, please please please let your engine fully warm up before flooring it. That is probably the most important thing with any form of any engine, boost or not.

 

[ETN]

The JB4 will add boost over stock that is roughly proportional to pedal input. So if your map calls for 4 psi over stock at 100% pedal, it will add 2 psi over stock at 50% pedal. That might not be the exact formula, but that's basically what was confirmed to me by Terry Burger (the owner and tuner) a few years ago on another platform. So if you stay out of the pedal, you won't get any worse gas mileage. If you really want, you can put it into the valet/low boost map if you wanted to get "the best" mileage.

For towing, I would put it in a higher map so the boost and torque are available when you need it. I really don't think mileage will suffer enough to not be worth the extra torque. I also wouldn't worry about engine stress or longevity as long as you're running enough octane and doing your regular maintenance. Also, please please please let your engine fully warm up before flooring it. That is probably the most important thing with any form of any engine, boost or not.

Again, appreciate the info, Bullitt. Makes sense, re cruising/towing, and good to know, re pedal/boost ratio.

I remember hearing years ago, on Car Talk, the old radio show with Click and Clack, that with carbonated engines, it was important ro allow for warmup, but with injected engines, while you won't get optimal power on a cold start, that the engine itself is no worse off. I tend to not be in race mode on startup regardless, but I'm definitely not the authority on this!

 

[Bullitt1841]

I would be very careful listening to any one or two people. Allowing any engine to warm up, especially a modern engine with tighter clearances between components, is the single most important thing you can do for longevity. Oil viscosity and friction also change a lot at different temperatures. Engines are simply designed to work at their operating temperatures. Turbos also use your engine's oil to function. Too cold or too hot can severely impact their lifespan.

You might get lucky if you beat on it cold. But it's easy and free insurance by letting things warm up.

I haven't looked into it on this platform, but the JB4 on the original BMW platforms would not allow any additional boost until oil temps were at least to 160. I'm pretty sure the F-150 does not have an oil temp sensor, so it would either need to use coolant temp or trans temp, which do not directly correlate to oil temp.

 

[ETN]

Yep, with you on viscosity. If very cold out, you need to let engine warm a bit before placing heavy load on it. That said, today's synthetic oils are better performance than days of yore. For the most part, I've happily left cold weather behind me, and takes me a minute to get out of neighborhood regardless. This is more or less the way I go about it-

https://www.consumerreports.org/car...-warm-up-your-car-before-driving-a5580016349/

Interesting to note, on the 160 threshold for BMW.

 

[ETN]

Don't know about the laptop. I got the wireless connector and bought the app. You don't have to go back into the JB4 to change maps. Believe me it is well worth it.
With the updated software you can change the maps depending on which drive mode you are in. I have it set to #2 for regular mode and then it goes to #3 when I put it in sport mode. I use only 93 octane. Or, at least that is what I buy.
View attachment 25752
Another great feature of the app is the gages and the ability to log runs. If there is any doubt or question as to how it is running all you have to do is e-mail the file off to Terry and he will be happy to evaluate it for you.
I know there are some guys that set it up for e85 but quite frankly, I don't trust the gas-a-hol stations where I live to actually sell you what is printed on the pump and will not take that risk. Maybe someday when the truck is out of warranty.
There are lots of great videos on YouTube about the JB4. Just remember to watch the newer videos as some of them are outdated with all the newer changes.
There is also a forum on the JB website that has lots of specific information for the EcoBoost apps.

Lobo, can you advise where to go in app to set different maps to different drive modes? Received tuner today (haven't installed yet), and just purchased app, but not seeing anywhere to do that. Do options change, once connected to truck?

 

[ghostbit]

Lobo, can you advise where to go in app to set different maps to different drive modes? Received tuner today (haven't installed yet), and just purchased app, but not seeing anywhere to do that. Do options change, once connected to truck?

Settings > Advanced > User Adjustment Settings > Options Bit 0

 

[ETN]

Settings > Advanced > User Adjustment Settings > Options Bit 0

Thanks ghostbit. See those now. Can you clarify a bit more? Not following on how Bit correlates to map or mode.

 

[ETN]

I see now, once connected to vehicle via Bluetooth, that you turn on Bit1, and then select which map you want after entering each drive mode (the map then switches, via app gauges, with each mode). My question now is, if I don't have phone with me in the truck (ie, app not connected to tuner), does each drive mode retain its map setting? So if I save Normal mode to map1, and Sport mode to map3, then run down the street with phone not in vehicle, phone battery dead, etc, will Normal and Sport stay in map1 and 3 respectively, or does everything return to default map1, or other?

 

[Lobo-Tremor]

I see now, once connected to vehicle via Bluetooth, that you turn on Bit1, and then select which map you want after entering each drive mode (the map then switches, via app gauges, with each mode). My question now is, if I don't have phone with me in the truck (ie, app not connected to tuner), does each drive mode retain its map setting? So if I save Normal mode to map1, and Sport mode to map3, then run down the street with phone not in vehicle, phone battery dead, etc, will Normal and Sport stay in map1 and 3 respectively, or does everything return to default map1, or other?

View attachment 29749

ETN. I have never tried it without my phone.
I would guess yes. But there really would be no way to tell other than watch the boost gage. The app is optional.

 

[ETN]

I asked the same from Burger (do maps remain programmed for each drive mode, if/when app is not reconnected while driving), and they confirm they do, FYI. Nice to know!