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Factory B&O Bass Roll-Off Solution

Would the ground lug they suggest be a good option? What about the sub mounting bolts on the floor? I bought the amp mounting panel from you.

No, nothing in the cab is a good option. Need to go to the frame of the truck or to the battery. Remember, the ground of any electronics runs all the way to the battery, but in the past, using the cab of a vehicle would just save $$$$, that's it. But now your ground connection will have to run through several glue joints to make its way to the battery.

You have to treat these trucks like a marine audio system. Since they are fiberglass, you have to run power + ground. Just the way these are. If you have a bad ground, you could experience one of these:
- Noise/pops in the system
- Amplifier overheating
- Damage to an aftermarket item since it will pull ground through the RCA cables when the ground connection is not sufficient.
- etc
 
Do you have a ground cable that reaches the battery? Don't see anything on your site. Might as well pull 2 wires and be done.
 
Yes we do, but I cannot post a link on the forum since we are not a vendor on this one. You will have to reach out another way :)
 
I sent a message on your website.
Let me know if you see it. I only seen the standard Kicker kit for $169 ( short Ground ) that is typically used.
 
Let me know if you see it. I only seen the standard Kicker kit for $169 ( short Ground ) that is typically used.
This is the only one I see and it says doesn't fit 22 F-150. It looks like what the install video is showing. I was thinking of running the cables under the truck like that. When I started doing research, I saw something that said don't ever run cables beneath a vehicle. I already have an install kit with a 36 inch ground as it seems all of them do. I think I'll ground it to the frame or let my local shop decide how to do it when I bring to have the amp tuned.
 
This is the only one I see and it says doesn't fit 22 F-150. It looks like what the install video is showing. I was thinking of running the cables under the truck like that. When I started doing research, I saw something that said don't ever run cables beneath a vehicle. I already have an install kit with a 36 inch ground as it seems all of them do. I think I'll ground it to the frame or let my local shop decide how to do it when I bring to have the amp tuned.

It does fit, but it's a universal kit that technically fits any vehicle. For running the cables under the truck, it's nothing abnormal, plenty of factory wiring under there and zero issues from hundreds of kits installed on the F-Series since we released the kit. The harmful effects to the wire are under the hood due to the heat + chemicals and the wire is all protected with a automotive-grade fuse that carries the proper rating.

If you do decide to let a shop do it, please tell them to not drill into the frame of the truck and fingers crossed they understand these vehicles. Just make them run a ground to the battery, not the cab, not the factory ground, and not at a random bolt.

Just trying to help :)
 
It does fit, but it's a universal kit that technically fits any vehicle. For running the cables under the truck, it's nothing abnormal, plenty of factory wiring under there and zero issues from hundreds of kits installed on the F-Series since we released the kit. The harmful effects to the wire are under the hood due to the heat + chemicals and the wire is all protected with a automotive-grade fuse that carries the proper rating.

If you do decide to let a shop do it, please tell them to not drill into the frame of the truck and fingers crossed they understand these vehicles. Just make them run a ground to the battery, not the cab, not the factory ground, and not at a random bolt.

Just trying to help :)
Do you have a ground only ? Since I already spent $85 on a kit, I don't really want to spend another $215. There are a lot of holes in the frame already, so probably no need to drill to install there. I'd probably Dremel the paint off at a hole and install a J clip and snug tight.
I understand you are trying to help and I appreciate it. If I didn't, I wouldn't have bought so many items for this install from you.
 
Do you have a ground only ? Since I already spent $85 on a kit, I don't really want to spend another $215. There are a lot of holes in the frame already, so probably no need to drill to install there. I'd probably Dremel the paint off at a hole and install a J clip and snug tight.
I understand you are trying to help and I appreciate it. If I didn't, I wouldn't have bought so many items for this install from you.

We only have the wire by the foot, but you would be missing the lug, grommet, and the sleeving. You can piece it together but we just do not have a ground only. I assume you are running 4-gauge?
 
We only have the wire by the foot, but you would be missing the lug, grommet, and the sleeving. You can piece it together but we just do not have a ground only. I assume you are running 4-gauge?
Yes, running 4 gauge, since J L Audio only supports that. I was looking on Crutchfield and they say use a distribution block. That way, I already have the lug and mount under hood and buy the rest by the foot to reach the amp.
 
Yes, running 4 gauge, since J L Audio only supports that. I was looking on Crutchfield and they say use a distribution block. That way, I already have the lug and mount under hood and buy the rest by the foot to reach the amp.

Got it, if your ok with abnormal color, Kicker sells it in 20ft runs. Just need another grommet + ring terminal
 
Found and verified ground and power locations. Did some testing, and now finishing things up.
Opted to just leave the factory subwoofer since there is a hole behind it. I really do not need the extra space, nor do I want to drill holes for a plate. Wow Ford went all out with that setup. If there is roll-off, I haven't noticed it with what I am running. Will post pics when its done.
 
Found and verified ground and power locations. Did some testing, and now finishing things up.
Opted to just leave the factory subwoofer since there is a hole behind it. I really do not need the extra space, nor do I want to drill holes for a plate. Wow Ford went all out with that setup. If there is roll-off, I haven't noticed it with what I am running. Will post pics when its done.
Sounds Good sells a block off plate, but it requires drilling 6 small holes. I bought one from them. I'm installing a J L Audio Stealthbox under the rear seat and a J L Audio mono amp. What ground point did you use?


 
Sounds Good sells a block off plate, but it requires drilling 6 small holes. I bought one from them. I'm installing a J L Audio Stealthbox under the rear seat and a J L Audio mono amp. What ground point did you use?


I seen that and almost ordered the plate, just not going to drill 6 holes to eliminate one. I will post the picture tomorrow where I grounded by my amp. Was going to use the ground right next to the backseat clip on the drivers side, went with bolt on the floor behind the back seat. JL's are nice, looks like a nice amp too!, I have a sealed box from my last f150, fits under the seats in the back for now. Sundown 10" DVC 4ohm sub in a sealed box, powered by an Alpine MRVM500. I took the B&O sub clip and used a speaker clip avoiding to cut wires. Standard wire harness fits perfect at the sub, they have them at Amazon for about $10.
Power wire, ran that from the passenger side, existing unused grommet just behind the fuse block.
remote turn on lead - not needed.
Ground close the amp.
I plan on changing my fuse at the battery to a breaker
still need to run my subcontrol to my dash somewhere too? not sure yet where.

Haven't noticed the roll-off, but it is probably there as mentioned earlier. Maybe the roll-off is a good thing if it is present.
If I notice any grounding issues I will just pickup another cable and run it to the battery, not crazy tough to get through the firewall.
 
I seen that and almost ordered the plate, just not going to drill 6 holes to eliminate one. I will post the picture tomorrow where I grounded by my amp. Was going to use the ground right next to the backseat clip on the drivers side, went with bolt on the floor behind the back seat. JL's are nice, looks like a nice amp too!, I have a sealed box from my last f150, fits under the seats in the back for now. Sundown 10" DVC 4ohm sub in a sealed box, powered by an Alpine MRVM500. I took the B&O sub clip and used a speaker clip avoiding to cut wires. Standard wire harness fits perfect at the sub, they have them at Amazon for about $10.
Power wire, ran that from the passenger side, existing unused grommet just behind the fuse block.
remote turn on lead - not needed.
Ground close the amp.
I plan on changing my fuse at the battery to a breaker
still need to run my subcontrol to my dash somewhere too? not sure yet where.

Haven't noticed the roll-off, but it is probably there as mentioned earlier. Maybe the roll-off is a good thing if it is present.
If I notice any grounding issues I will just pickup another cable and run it to the battery, not crazy tough to get through the firewall.
Sounds Good insists grounding to the battery is the only way to go. There's so much conflicting info on that, I'm not sure what I'm going to do. Most say you should ground no more than 18 inches from the amp. Even the amp instructions state that Some talk about voltage drop running the ground all the way to the battery. Some say running long cables is more likely to add noise to the system. Some say grounding to the chassis is the correct way. Some say if the factory ground point is good enough for them, it's good enough for me. etc etc etc.
 
Sounds Good insists grounding to the battery is the only way to go. There's so much conflicting info on that, I'm not sure what I'm going to do. Most say you should ground no more than 18 inches from the amp. Even the amp instructions state that Some talk about voltage drop running the ground all the way to the battery. Some say running long cables is more likely to add noise to the system. Some say grounding to the chassis is the correct way. Some say if the factory ground point is good enough for them, it's good enough for me. etc etc etc.
I have heard that since the late 80's about where to ground, keep it short or go to the battery. For just adding a sub, I have never had issues in any vehicles I have done this too. For complete systems, I suspect you might get noise or have problems. Either the factory ground near the drivers side by the seat clip, or where I used should work. I took the bottom bolt out from the B&O sub close to the passenger side on the floor, and grounded it there. I put the sub back just to fill the hole up, and just used the top bolt and the drivers side to hold the sub inplace. I compared it with and without the truck running and several songs, didn't notice any pops, fading, or noise. I am not going to dispute what the stereo stores say, just offering alternatives on what I have done and what works. Soundgoodstereo has some really cool extremely high tech things and all appear to be very high-end.
 
I have heard that since the late 80's about where to ground, keep it short or go to the battery. For just adding a sub, I have never had issues in any vehicles I have done this too. For complete systems, I suspect you might get noise or have problems. Either the factory ground near the drivers side by the seat clip, or where I used should work. I took the bottom bolt out from the B&O sub close to the passenger side on the floor, and grounded it there. I put the sub back just to fill the hole up, and just used the top bolt and the drivers side to hold the sub inplace. I compared it with and without the truck running and several songs, didn't notice any pops, fading, or noise. I am not going to dispute what the stereo stores say, just offering alternatives on what I have done and what works. Soundgoodstereo has some really cool extremely high tech things and all appear to be very high-end.
The spot you used is what I wanted to use. Sounds Good advised agains't that. After the sub comes out, I'm using that bolt to install their amp mount panel and will ground there also and see what happens.

 
Sounds Good insists grounding to the battery is the only way to go. There's so much conflicting info on that, I'm not sure what I'm going to do. Most say you should ground no more than 18 inches from the amp. Even the amp instructions state that Some talk about voltage drop running the ground all the way to the battery. Some say running long cables is more likely to add noise to the system. Some say grounding to the chassis is the correct way. Some say if the factory ground point is good enough for them, it's good enough for me. etc etc etc.

You can ground anywhere you want as long as the resistance is low, less than 0.5 ohms. The problem is when this truck is in motion, you will reach up to 50ohms at the factory ground point on the rear wall. This means the cab does not offer good ground due to the glued construction techniques, not the aluminum. Cheap electronics will not mind this high resistance, but moderate-quality electronics will give you nothing but issues.

Will the system still work, maybe... Will you have noise/issues, maybe.... Should you run a dedicated ground in the 2015+ F-Series trucks, yes.

Remember, the only reason in previous years you would use the body as a ground was to save $$$, the ground still has to make it to the battery regardless.
 
I'm sure everyone knows of this problem and everyone is fighting to fix it. We have been using this method for a long time, but just now had time to add it to our website so you can purchase it easily. It's the same setup that we use on our packages and is the proper way to fix the bass roll-off.

Here is a copy/paste that I just wrote for our website that explains more. Any questions, please let me know :)


Option- Fix Factory Bass Roll-Off:
We have tested thoroughly just about every integration option on these trucks and while some can try to prevent the bass roll-off, they are simply a band-aid that does not work very well. Most are just a bass boost on the bottom end, but this boost exists when the roll-off is not happening, so you will constantly fight the remote subwoofer level/bass knob to "tame" the new subwoofer system.

Our approach is very different than most, but it is backed by testing along with a few key patents that make this happen. Instead of utilizing the factory subwoofer connection, we utilize a pair of interior speakers. Now these speakers do not have much subwoofer bass going to them, but it's just enough for the Kicker KeyLOC integration module to restore it properly. So why did we choose the Kicker KeyLOC? Well, it's the only integration module that can fix the All-Pass Filters on the interior speakers. Since we need both the left speaker and the right speaker to create the signal, we need to combine them to create one. As you might know, the left speaker has a totally different tune than the right. So a simple "Line Output Converter" is not the correct device for this vehicle, the KeyLOC is the only one in our industry that can do this properly...remember the patents I mentioned??

This option includes a custom-made harness by our team and is pre-programmed at our facility to match your truck's factory stereo system. Just connect the power/ground, remote turn-on, and the included RCAs from the custom harness to your amplifier. Then you now have the professional way to fix the bass roll-off and have the signal you need for a great subwoofer system.


Option- Keep Factory Bass Roll-Off:
As you might have already experienced, the factory B&O systems will roll back the bass over volume 14 and it will come in and out depending on the song. This roll-off exists to protect the factory subwoofer from damage, but for most users, it creates an unpleasant listening experience. This harness uses the factory subwoofer connection, so the roll-off will still exist at volumes over the 14 mark, but if you are a lower volume level listener or just want more bass in a cost-effective manner, this harness is for you. This harness connects at the subwoofer, not the green plug on the enclosure. Simply remove the subwoofer from the enclosure and our harness plugs right in. No need to splice wires to upgrade the subwoofer system in your vehicle.

For the High-Level and low-level options. You will need to see if your amplifier accepts speaker-level/high-level inputs and how. For example, here are several popular amplifiers and if they accept High-Level inputs:

Arc Audio High-Level = RCA
Mosconi High Level = RCA
Kicker = RCA
New Alpine High Level = RCA
Older Alpine High Level = Speaker Wire
JL Audio High-Level = RCA
Audiocontrol High-Level = Speaker Wire
New Rockford High-Level = RCA
Old Rockford High-Level = Speaker Wire
Skar Audio RP Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Sundown Salt Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
DD Audio M Series High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
Rockville = High-Level = Does not have it, you cannot use soldered RCA from your ACM. You must convert this with a LOC or Kicker KeyLOC, etc.
etc....

Any questions, please let us know and we can guide you in the right direction.

Photo of the Roll-Off Fix Solution:
pro_ford_b_o_subwoofer_harness_upgrade_f50410964d873026d2ca6d73bfcab41fa787196f.jpg

for keeping the roll off and using your adapter from the B&O sub wire. Does it have 4 wires to go to high level input on an amp? Do you just use the left side, or run in parallel and use L/R on the sub amp
 
for keeping the roll off and using your adapter from the B&O sub wire. Does it have 4 wires to go to high level input on an amp? Do you just use the left side, or run in parallel and use L/R on the sub amp

It has 4-wries that you will feed into your left/right input on the amplifier
 

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