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Removal of rear blocks?

What did you end up going with? I’m debating on removing the blocks or switching to a 1” block and was curious where you ended up.
Sorry for the long delay. I swapped the rear blocks for 1", right after I bought the truck, and have been happy with the stance. Note, when you drop the rear, the nose of the truck will come up by about 1/4". I think the rake looks good this way, tires fill the space well, and plenty of clearance getting truck into garage.

I had about a thousand pounds of rock in the back one day, and it was still not quite level, FYI.
 
Thinking about putting a 2" block on the rear with the halo kit as I don't want to stress the CVs by going with a 2.5 lift. I would also think the ride would stay close to stock floaty with more strut travel. Thoughts?
Are you looking for it to be perfectly level because you can adjust them for a better ride and to maintain some rake.
 
Sorry for the long delay. I swapped the rear blocks for 1", right after I bought the truck, and have been happy with the stance. Note, when you drop the rear, the nose of the truck will come up by about 1/4". I think the rake looks good this way, tires fill the space well, and plenty of clearance getting truck into garage.

I had about a thousand pounds of rock in the back one day, and it was still not quite level, FYI.
Planning on doing a reverse level same as you. No interest in running bigger tires and want to leave the front suspension alone. One question though? Did you replace your Tremor shocks with one sized for the smaller block?
 
Planning on doing a reverse level same as you. No interest in running bigger tires and want to leave the front suspension alone. One question though? Did you replace your Tremor shocks with one sized for the smaller block?
No, the only thing I've done to the suspension was replace the rear blocks, to reduce the cavernous space over the rear wheel.
 
I completely removed the rear blocks and replaced the u-bolts with 2WD versions and new nuts. Looks great now. Still has about 3/4" of rake.

20221227_095438~2.webp


20221227_143118~2.webp
 
Just out of curiosity, did you measure before/after? The nose on mine came up 1/4" when I dropped the rear with 1" blocks.
I only measured the rear. 2.25" at the top of the rear fenders, and 3.0" at the rear tow hooks.
 
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I completely removed the rear blocks and replaced the u-bolts with 2WD versions and new nuts. Looks great now. Still has about 3/4" of rake.

View attachment 16872

View attachment 16873

Curious how your experience has been with the blocks removed. Any issues with handling? What about towing/payload, does it squat too much when loaded down?

I'm thinking about doing the same to mine, but haven't heard from anyone whose had more than a couple hundred miles on it after removing them.
 
Curious how your experience has been with the blocks removed. Any issues with handling? What about towing/payload, does it squat too much when loaded down?

I'm thinking about doing the same to mine, but haven't heard from anyone whose had more than a couple hundred miles on it after removing them.
FWIW, 7k mi after replacing 2.25" with 1", the ride, handling, and payload seem unaffected, especially with RAS on, haven't yet towed.
 
FWIW, 7k mi after replacing 2.25" with 1", the ride, handling, and payload seem unaffected, especially with RAS on, haven't yet towed.
Thanks for the update. If you don’t tow often, did you get the RAS for the squat when at higher payload? Or for handling benefits?
 
Thanks for the update. If you don’t tow often, did you get the RAS for the squat when at higher payload? Or for handling benefits?
For the squat/payload, yep, with truck closer to level now. Can't say I notice any difference in ride/handling with RAS,, if anything, maybe slightly more planted when bouncing around on gravel/dirt/speed bumps.
 
I was under the impression that the tremor block is 1.5" taller than standard fx4, from the videos that I seen towing with a 6-8k trailer the trucks rear squat is an inch then the front, not bad in my opinion, so it probably be 3.5" lower than the front in blocks were totally removed, depends how much towing a person is going to do I guess
 
Curious how your experience has been with the blocks removed. Any issues with handling? What about towing/payload, does it squat too much when loaded down?

I'm thinking about doing the same to mine, but haven't heard from anyone whose had more than a couple hundred miles on it after removing them.
Pretty much the same as @ETN. I don't tow or even haul, really. But in the event that I ever need to, I didn't want to be unprepared.

I really don't notice much ride or handling difference at the lowest setting from the RAS. I can tell that it prevents squat, though. Just jumping up and down on the bumper, it travels slower and not as far down.

Rake is much, much less after removing the blocks and adding the RAS. I would guess 1" of rake with no blocks. 2" of rake with no blocks and RAS at lowest setting. Stock Tremor rake was way too much for my taste.
 
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Thanks for the update. I did not realize so many people put RAS in after removing or lowering the back lift. But makes perfect sense. I've got pretty similar typical usage as you @Bullitt1841, rarely tow or haul but don't want to be unprepared for the occasional homeowner project that requires it.

Did you install the SD or HD RAS? And did you change the bump stops at all? Seems like you wouldn't want to add the spacers included with RAS.
 
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Thanks for the update. I did not realize so many people put RAS in after removing or lowering the back lift. But makes perfect sense. I've got pretty similar typical usage as you @Bullitt1841, rarely tow or haul but don't want to be unprepared for the occasional homeowner project that requires it.

Did you install the SD or HD RAS? And did you change the bump stops at all? Seems like you wouldn't want to add the spacers included with RAS.
Just the standard kit and did not install the bump stop spacers. I think RAS says somewhere that the majority of people will not need the heavy duty kit.
 
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Just the standard kit and did not install the bump stop spacers. I think RAS says somewhere that the majority of people will not need the heavy duty kit.
Same here, SD kit, and didn't mess with bump stops. Super easy install, and truck is definitely more buffered against vertical travel. Probably haven't had more than 500lbs in bed since install, but with that, truck probably didn't squat more than an inch, and the buffer should get more pronounced with more weight, if that makes sense. In other words, the further you stretch a spring, the harder it becomes to stretch it. With something like 1.5" rake now, unloaded, if I remember correctly, doubt I'd squat past dead level shy of 1200+ lbs in bed, which I would rarely exceed if ever. For trucks less than 2" of rake, as squishy as the Tremor is, if using payload or towing, I see RAS as a no brainer, long as you're okay with $500 cost.
 
I just removed my rear blocks yesterday and have zero regrets. Almost level stance, and surprisingly slightly easier to throw stuff in the back - specifically my golf clubs. Could be a placebo effect but it seems to ride slightly better....it definitely does not have any adverse impact ride. Very glad I did it.
 
I forgot to update here. Also removed my rear blocks a couple weeks ago and installed RAS. The rake is so much more tolerable now. Agreed that it is way easier to load and unload, which is nice for throwing mountain bikes over the tailgate.

I'll admit, after installing RAS the back was a little more lifted than I hoped. But I think the amount of rake looks fine now, looks like a truck that had handle some work. It's got about 2" of rake unloaded. I've only had a load of mulch in the bed so far (maybe 800 lbs or so), but the squat was fine. In fact, it still had almost an inch of rake. Definitely happy I removed the blocks.
 
I completely removed the rear blocks and replaced the u-bolts with 2WD versions and new nuts. Looks great now. Still has about 3/4" of rake.

View attachment 16872

View attachment 16873
Yours looks great.

Question, how did you get the locating pins to line up once the blocks were removed? I removed the OEM 2” block and as I set the leaf spring back down the pins are missing the holes by about 1/2, towards the front of the truck. Not immediately evident on how to shift the spring back so the pins drop in.
 
I forgot to update here. Also removed my rear blocks a couple weeks ago and installed RAS. The rake is so much more tolerable now. Agreed that it is way easier to load and unload, which is nice for throwing mountain bikes over the tailgate.

I'll admit, after installing RAS the back was a little more lifted than I hoped. But I think the amount of rake looks fine now, looks like a truck that had handle some work. It's got about 2" of rake unloaded. I've only had a load of mulch in the bed so far (maybe 800 lbs or so), but the squat was fine. In fact, it still had almost an inch of rake. Definitely happy I removed the blocks.
Any trouble with the alignment pins mating as the truck was lowered back onto the axle? I can't get mine to line up, its like the spring needs to shift towards the rear of the truck by 1/2" but I can't see how or why.
 
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