Transmission Temperatures.

I’m going to be changing mine as well.
Originally I was going to go with the B&M but I’ve decided to go with this kit instead.
I think anything is better than plastic. Nothing worse than getting stranded. Even with warranty it sucks depending on location and level of mechanics who are free.
 
I did the PPE pan when I did the cooler and it would make sense why the transmission has quite the delay in warming up if it’s below 40° even with the engine coolant warmer. I completely blanked out that the pan is acting as a very good heatsink, I generally look at a lot of things like that as more for show than purpose, like diff covers (unless it’s banks) lol. Probably a way better and simpler mod than the entire cooler for most people’s needs
If Banks would offer a pan for the 10r80 I would purchased it. But, anything is better than the plastic pan.
 
More details on my pan failure. We left Houston, TX and it was really cold and rainy all the way to MS. I have Forscan and the temp was running around 200+/-5. We hit FL and it must have been a 50 upward degree swing and the sun came out. I started noticing 210, then 220, and then 230 and decided to pull over for gas and just looked underneath. I have a steel Tran/Cat shield and I could see the fluid leaking around the air holes! Just happened to be in Crestview, FL and a Ford dealer was a mile away on a Sunday! Picked up a rental car in another town and got the truck back several weeks later! I have a whole thread on that nightmare if you look for it. Never purchased an upgraded pan on any other vehicle but glad I have it on the Tremor now.
 
Are you guys putting these in yourselves or having it done, looks like quite the job and I have nowhere to do it.
 
I went with the B&M 10R80 Hi-TEK Deep Heavy Duty Transmission Pan on my 2022 because I thought the inside looked like it would drain the best. Changed at like 30k miles and the fluid was already pretty dark. Needed a long hex head to tighten.

But I can confirm that it also works with the metal raptor skid plate.

But its like $60 bucks more that what I purchased it at.

 
And for general comparison, here was the color of the fluid at 30k vs new fluid. The transmission running at these higher temperatures is rough on the fluid. Glad I did it by 30k and will definitely do a fluid drain and fill every 30k after.

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And for general comparison, here was the color of the fluid at 30k vs new fluid. The transmission running at these higher temperatures is rough on the fluid. Glad I did it by 30k and will definitely do a fluid drain and fill every 30k after.

View attachment 45462
that image says it all to me. The transmission, IMO, is a good transmission but he temps its operating under are causing the fluid to wear out faster than their recomemnded service schedule. after see that I might just replace mine at 15k which i have about 10k to go. Im definitely going to use the Amsoil ULV transfluid. Amsoil said a drop pan and replace filter/grommet, it needs about 5 qts. anyone else heard or seen different in fluid qts needed after filter change?
 
I went with the B&M 10R80 Hi-TEK Deep Heavy Duty Transmission Pan on my 2022 because I thought the inside looked like it would drain the best. Changed at like 30k miles and the fluid was already pretty dark. Needed a long hex head to tighten.

But I can confirm that it also works with the metal raptor skid plate.

But its like $60 bucks more that what I purchased it at.

how difficult was the install? a lot of stuff to move?
 
I went with the B&M 10R80 Hi-TEK Deep Heavy Duty Transmission Pan on my 2022 because I thought the inside looked like it would drain the best. Changed at like 30k miles and the fluid was already pretty dark. Needed a long hex head to tighten.

But I can confirm that it also works with the metal raptor skid plate.

But its like $60 bucks more that what I purchased it at.

wow. $400! lawd. that beats having a breakdown though.
 
It wasn't pleasant but not impossible. There are some hard lines that run around it that need to be negotiated around. Checking the coolant level I think was the worst part because you have to get your hand right up to the exhaust while your running.

Word to the wise, look at at video of where the filter is located on the transmission and drill a small hole in that area to drain the pan your taking off. If you go too far in you only bump the filter. That way your not dropping a full pan.
 
1st pic is trans temp in Normal driving. day time temps 83 degrees. other pic is trans temp in sport mode.
post you transmission tempds. I curious to see what yall are seeing in transmission temps in various drive modes.
 

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I've seen as high as 210F, normal driving, about 80-85F outside ambient temp. These trans just run way, way too hot.
 
I've seen as high as 210F, normal driving, about 80-85F outside ambient temp. These trans just run way, way too hot.
i had the windows down doing 60 mph. 81-83 temps driving in sport mode. averaging 20-21 mpg but trans temp between 201 and 203. insane. i can't imagine hooking a 8k trailer on this and seeing what those temps might be. I wonder if they underfilled the transmission from factory? underfilling adds up as profit for ford when they are a couple quarts low for each vehicle
 
i had the windows down doing 60 mph. 81-83 temps driving in sport mode. averaging 20-21 mpg but trans temp between 201 and 203. insane. i can't imagine hooking a 8k trailer on this and seeing what those temps might be. I wonder if they underfilled the transmission from factory? underfilling adds up as profit for ford when they are a couple quarts low for each vehicle

Yup. First thing that came to mind. I tow a modest duck hunting boat/motor/trailer during winter. Thank God I never really tow during summer. I mentioned on here in another thread that my 19 Ram with the ZF 8 speed never got over 200F in 100F weather.
 
Lots of conjecture about the fluid resiliience, but has anyone had the fluid tested? It's no secret good synthetic lubrication fluids can easily handle over 270 deg without thermal breakdown, so looking at the fluid color might not give the full picture. Like, is it not "burnt," but dirty from fine clutch/seal wear? These are not older transmissions, and have been in service for a decade now.
 
Lots of conjecture about the fluid resiliience, but has anyone had the fluid tested? It's no secret good synthetic lubrication fluids can easily handle over 270 deg without thermal breakdown, so looking at the fluid color might not give the full picture. Like, is it not "burnt," but dirty from fine clutch/seal wear? These are not older transmissions, and have been in service for a decade now.
I did some research in my truck only has 10,000 less than 10,000 miles. I’m going to be doing a drain and flush at 15,000 replacing the Forde fluids with Amsoil synthetic and will be doing that the rest of the time I’m also running Amsoil synthetic oil in the truck doing the 5000 mile fluid changes. I don’t trust Forde statements on how long they can run the oil in the vehicle or that the transmission fluid is lifetime. I think that with these transmissions which I really liked, I just think it runs too hot. I think that we realize that we need to do much more frequent fluid changes than what is recommended by Forde. I might even look at 20 or 30,000 miles and replacing the transmission fluid. I’ll also be adding a aftermarket deeper aluminum pan to get rid of that crappy ass plastic thing that they call a transmission pan.
 
Towed approximately 4k this past weekend on a lil camp trip. Ambient temp was 88 max at the time of travel. Roads were paved with small hills at no more than 4 degrees of pitch. Speeds were no greater than 65 and only 2 small towns that i had to slow down or stop. Trans temp avg was around 210 but max was 217 occasionally. Tow/haul mode used and trans never shifted above 8th gear.

🛘
 
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