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Tremor Level Pic Thread

Rough Country 2.5" Kit w/M1 Monotubes
RC rear blocks installed, sits at 41" from ground to fender. Still need rear shocks and upper control arms. The ride quality is pretty close to stock.
Did you do rear shocks yet? I also did the RC 2.5 mono (left stock blocks). Was looking at the RC 0-3.5" mono's for rear.
 
First time poster, long time reader! I have heard different opinions about the level kits. One person told me that since the tremor already has an 1 inch lift up front from stock then doing a 2 inch spacer would technically only raise it 1 extra inch? Is there any truth to that?
This applies if you buy a non-Tremor specific complete strut kit. The struts might add 2.5" to a stock f150 but they will not add that much to a Tremor because the stock Tremor struts are longer than the stock F150.

If you buy a Tremor specific kit like the Rough Country monotube, it will add the listed lift because Rough Country chose struts that are longer than the Tremor struts to achieve the intended lift amount.

With leveling pucks like I (and many others here) installed they will add the listed amount of lift to any strut setup because they add additional length on top of stock setup regardless of stock height.

Hope this helps.
 
Got a 2” readylift installed and 1.5” wheel spacers.
 

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Something I’ve noticed with the puck style lift, ride seems a bit more harsher and busier, could it be the wheel spacers?
 
Something I’ve noticed with the puck style lift, ride seems a bit more harsher and busier, could it be the wheel spacers?
Could be spacers, alignment, tires, etc. My ‘23 with 2” ReadyLift Pucks and 315/70r 17 KO2’s rides and drives just like it did stock. I don’t have spacers. Running Gen 3 Raptor wheels.
By “Busier” do you mean it tries to wonder or maybe dart around with small steering corrections?
 
Could be spacers, alignment, tires, etc. My ‘23 with 2” ReadyLift Pucks and 315/70r 17 KO2’s rides and drives just like it did stock. I don’t have spacers. Running Gen 3 Raptor wheels.
By “Busier” do you mean it tries to wonder or maybe dart around with small steering corrections?
It’s quite strange, now after some driving truck drives like stock now
 
Reviving this thread. Can someone with a leveling puck or kit take pictures of their upper mounting area. Its time for me to install fresh shocks and trying to discover what the previous owner leveled this truck with so I don't duplicate effort or parts. I like the stance as is... But without disassembly I can't see a puck...or I don't know what I'm looking at. Rear shocks have tremor sticker on one of them so I reckon they're oe
 
Repost from other suspension thread but can anyone identify if I do have a spacer lift going on here? My truck is definitely more level than stock, but as I'm not the first owner, I don't know what got put in there. The shocks have fomoco part labels so they're oem for sure.

This look like a level puck is in there to y'all?

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Definitely a puck in there
 
If it’s stock, you should be at least 2 1/2” higher in the rear than in front. I’ve got a 2” ReadyLift “Puck” Level on front and I’m only 1” higher in the rear.
You can’t actually see the pucks on my truck.
 
You can’t see the puck in that picture but the position of the oem top hat makes it look like there’s a puck in there. The angle of the UCA shows it has some lift. Maybe 2” which would be a 1.4” puck. The shock mount is 2” deep so you wouldn’t see it.
 
My ‘24 5.0 was 22.5” wheel center to fender at the OEM lift you could measure now and compare to that to get close.
 
Thanks y'all. Confirmation of what I thought I was seeing ...very likely a puck level just up in the bucket where you can't see
 

Has anyone tried this particular kit, for the money it seems to be a possible contender for many.
Data point for anyone coming back to this thread. I added this kit and got floor to arch, 39.5 / 42

Don't know what stock is bc there was a spacer in from previous owner that got removed. Going to take it apart again and add the AS 2.5 spacer and then dial down the eibachs until I get a good height I like. Aiming for 41/42 or 41.5/42
 
Data point for anyone coming back to this thread. I added this kit and got floor to arch, 39.5 / 42

Don't know what stock is bc there was a spacer in from previous owner that got removed. Going to take it apart again and add the AS 2.5 spacer and then dial down the eibachs until I get a good height I like. Aiming for 41/42 or 41.5/42
As a reference point mine was 38 1/4 and 42 1/2 stock
 
Data point for anyone coming back to this thread. I added this kit and got floor to arch, 39.5 / 42

Don't know what stock is bc there was a spacer in from previous owner that got removed. Going to take it apart again and add the AS 2.5 spacer and then dial down the eibachs until I get a good height I like. Aiming for 41/42 or 41.5/42
I have the Eibach Stage 2 kit on mine. I'm still not real happy with the rake with the coilovers maxed out on the front. I've been wondering if I could add some pucks to gain a tad more clearance. I'm not necessarily wanting it level, but i would like to get the front within an inch of the rear like you mentioned.

Did you ever get around to doing this and if so how did it turn out? I thought about pulling the Eibach off and replacing it with a Readylift 3.0, but some 2" or 2.5" Autospring pucks would be cheaper for me.
 

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I have the Eibach Stage 2 kit on mine. I'm still not real happy with the rake with the coilovers maxed out on the front. I've been wondering if I could add some pucks to gain a tad more clearance. I'm not necessarily wanting it level, but i would like to get the front within an inch of the rear like you mentioned.

Did you ever get around to doing this and if so how did it turn out? I thought about pulling the Eibach off and replacing it with a Readylift 3.0, but some 2" or 2.5" Autospring pucks would be cheaper for me.
Hold on brother, did you install it or a shop? Do you know if they removed the stock blocks when they did the rear? If you're unsure, pop under and check for this piece. If it's still there, remove it. Your rear end will ride smoother and the rake will be gone. You'll need a shorter U-Bolt to reconnect the frame and the axle.

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Hold on brother, did you install it or a shop? Do you know if they removed the stock blocks when they did the rear? If you're unsure, pop under and check for this piece. If it's still there, remove it. Your rear end will ride smoother and the rake will be gone. You'll need a shorter U-Bolt to reconnect the frame and the axle.

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I had it put on at a shop. Left the stock tremor rear block on. Thought about putting a shorter one on to level it more, but I’d prefer to pick the front up instead. I might put a Readylift 3.0 on it. It won’t be level but it’ll be within an inch or so.
 
I had it put on at a shop. Left the stock tremor rear block on. Thought about putting a shorter one on to level it more, but I’d prefer to pick the front up instead. I might put a Readylift 3.0 on it. It won’t be level but it’ll be within an inch or so.
If it's a street-only tremor, go for it. Beyond 2" my understanding is you lose suspension travel (edit: and end up with a stiffer ride). So if you intend on off-roading where flex and traction matter, consider 2" a performance cap. Above that you also need to consider other parts to get the alignment correct and CV angles within spec. None of that's really important for you if you typically own short term though.
 
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