KC ERA4 Ditch Lights Installed

[DingDongDoug]

You described exactly what I see. Passenger side light is completely stable. The light and the antenna kind of leans against each other but not tightly. Driver side wiggles like a bobble head doll. I was curious if the passenger side would start to wiggle if I unscrew the antenna.

I ordered some heavy duty mounts from SPV that bolt into the truck on two locations instead of the one used by the standard duty mount. Hopefully I'll get the opportunity to swap them in at some point this weekend.

I kind of suspect the mounting point. Where the arm actually touches the truck.
I know the lights are heavy, but since one side is way more stable than the other, I don't think the mounting arm is to blame. The passenger side works fine.
I think its the A pillar mounting point and hearing that y'all have the same issue makes me feel even more sure about it. I think the answer it to find another way to mount the ditch light.

Let me know how the SPVs work (Do those mount to the hood mounting bolts?) and if they work Ill be following suit.

 

[High_Country]

I kind of suspect the mounting point. Where the arm actually touches the truck.
I know the lights are heavy, but since one side is way more stable than the other, I don't think the mounting arm is to blame. The passenger side works fine.
I think its the A pillar mounting point and hearing that y'all have the same issue makes me feel even more sure about it. I think the answer it to find another way to mount the ditch light.

Let me know how the SPVs work (Do those mount to the hood mounting bolts?) and if they work Ill be following suit.

Is there a way to brace the bracket against the hood or other body panel with a small piece of rubber hose or something? Something you can wedge in there to absorb vibration, provide some support, and paint protection? I'm thinking like a small piece of 5/16" fuel hose, vacuum hose, something you can push in there to provide some stability.

 

[FaKtor34]

Is there a way to brace the bracket against the hood or other body panel with a small piece of rubber hose or something? Something you can wedge in there to absorb vibration, provide some support, and paint protection? I'm thinking like a small piece of 5/16" fuel hose, vacuum hose, something you can push in there to provide some stability.

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You could try these, a lot of shops use these to support bug shields etc.

 

[madeinchina]

Cone Shaped Black Rubber Bumpers - 20 PC - Made in USA - Rubber Feet Spacers for Electronics, Computer Audio Equipment, Car Truck Bug Deflector, Cutting Boards, Picture Frames, Cabinet Door https://a.co/d/656HUyX

You could try these, a lot of shops use these to support bug shields etc.

That could be worth a shot. are you thinking using bolts long enough to stick one of these on the end of the bolt to sit against the hood?

 

[FaKtor34]

That could be worth a shot. are you thinking using bolts long enough to stick one of these on the end of the bolt to sit against the hood?

Yes if it won't reach without the extended bolt, they also have a square block that does the same thing.

 

[DingDongDoug]

I have the same wiggle on the drivers side, 3" rigid pods. Considering some type of dampening.

I've tried multiple types of washers and rubber dampeners. Nothing seems to work. I feel like its the pillar itself that is a little wonky but let me know if you figure anything out. For now I'm just shopping for a different way to mount these. Like the devices that mount to the hood bolts and not the a pillar.

Is there a way to brace the bracket against the hood or other body panel with a small piece of rubber hose or something? Something you can wedge in there to absorb vibration, provide some support, and paint protection? I'm thinking like a small piece of 5/16" fuel hose, vacuum hose, something you can push in there to provide some stability.

Its a good call.
Knowing now that this isn't just my individual light/mount, I think I may need to brace it.
If I could get another angle in there, I'm sure it would dampen some of the wiggle.
Its just such a tight fit and whatever I do Ill have to secure well as its right in front of the windshield and I don't want things blowing back at me.
Ill see if I can fabricate some type brace and take some photos.

Nothing can be easy, can it.

 

[DingDongDoug]

Yes if it won't reach without the extended bolt, they also have a square block that does the same thing.

Well shoot.. I can use those around the house even if they don't help with the ditch light wiggle.
Good looking out FaKtor34.

 

[madeinchina]

So a bit of good news on the driver side ditch light wiggle. The SPV heavy duty mounts for the 2021+ F150/Raptors does the trick. Its bolted to the truck at two locations and the bracket itself is thicker gauge than the grimm offroad standard duty version. Install involves getting at one more bolt but overall pretty easy. I installed the driver side tonight and went for a test drive over some janky road, no wiggle. Over some bumps I can see it vibrate very slightly but its major imrovement for me and I'm satisfied.

The downside is the price is a little steep. I guess what else is new. Tomorrow Ill have time to swap out the passenger side. Hope stage3motor will entertain a return.

SPV Parts HEAVY DUTY 2021+ Raptor/ F-150 A - Pillar (Ditch) Mounts (Fits most 3" Light pods and BIGGER)

These SPV A-Pillar Mounts will hold MANY Pod lights by Rigid, Baja Designs, Diode Dynamics and many others. This heavy duty, one piece design allows you to quickly and easily bolt in the bracket without even removing the cowl. Unlike our standard duty bracket, and many other brackets available...

specialtyperformanceparts.com

 

[miff01]

@madeinchina I will be installing the KC lights this weekend. Can you share the mods needed to the harness when using the upfitter switches? Thanks!

 

[legmar]

Installed a pair of KC ERA4s on A-pillars today. A shout out to Robert from the KC sales team, who insisted I call him after the lights arrived so he can walk me through the install process. I was very pleased with the results. The harness had to be modified slightly to use our upfitter switches, the modifications made the install much simpler tbh. Day time photos to follow once the sun comes up.

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Excellent work on the comparison photos!!

 

[DingDongDoug]

So a bit of good news on the driver side ditch light wiggle. The SPV heavy duty mounts for the 2021+ F150/Raptors does the trick. Its bolted to the truck at two locations and the bracket itself is thicker gauge than the grimm offroad standard duty version. Install involves getting at one more bolt but overall pretty easy. I installed the driver side tonight and went for a test drive over some janky road, no wiggle. Over some bumps I can see it vibrate very slightly but its major imrovement for me and I'm satisfied.

The downside is the price is a little steep. I guess what else is new. Tomorrow Ill have time to swap out the passenger side. Hope stage3motor will entertain a return.

SPV Parts HEAVY DUTY 2021+ Raptor/ F-150 A - Pillar (Ditch) Mounts (Fits most 3" Light pods and BIGGER)

These SPV A-Pillar Mounts will hold MANY Pod lights by Rigid, Baja Designs, Diode Dynamics and many others. This heavy duty, one piece design allows you to quickly and easily bolt in the bracket without even removing the cowl. Unlike our standard duty bracket, and many other brackets available...

specialtyperformanceparts.com

Dude. Im all over it.
I'll get the SPV heavy duty ordered tonight.

 

[DingDongDoug]

@madeinchina I will be installing the KC lights this weekend. Can you share the mods needed to the harness when using the upfitter switches? Thanks!

Post in thread 'Aux switch wiring?' https://www.f150tremor.com/threads/aux-switch-wiring.158/post-18730


There's some great info in the thread link above. It's pretty easy once you isolate the red bundle behind the battery (these are the powered upfitter cables) and trim away all the excess wires from KC.
Reach out if the other thread doesn't answer all your questions.
Good luck!

 

[madeinchina]

@madeinchina I will be installing the KC lights this weekend. Can you share the mods needed to the harness when using the upfitter switches? Thanks!

I called up KC to ask for help. The sales guy that picked up the phone was named Robert. He walked me through which wires to snip over the phone. The man sounded like he couldve trimmed the harness while blindfolded using his feet.

He had me cut out everything except the 2 red cables that powers each KC light, the 1 white cable that powers the amber light in the center of the ERA4s and lastly the black ground line. The two red cables were then merged together into one line. I would recommend calling them and asking for Robert if you want to be super certain.

I opted to wire the amber light to aux1 and the two white beams to aux2. I added spade terminals at the ends of the light wiring and truck wiring. This way the harness can be disconnected in the future without cutting. The thread @DingDongDoug pointed to provides a good diagram of which truck aux wire matches to which switch. For grounding I used one of the grounding posts near the battery. Dont forget to disconnect the battery before you start.

 

[DingDongDoug]

I called up KC to ask for help. The sales guy that picked up the phone was named Robert. He walked me through which wires to snip over the phone. The man sounded like he couldve trimmed the harness while blindfolded using his feet.

He had me cut out everything except the 2 red cables that powers each KC light, the 1 white cable that powers the amber light in the center of the ERA4s and lastly the black ground line. The two red cables were then merged together into one line. I would recommend calling them and asking for Robert if you want to be super certain.

I opted to wire the amber light to aux1 and the two white beams to aux2. I added spade terminals at the ends of the light wiring and truck wiring. This way the harness can be disconnected in the future without cutting. The thread @DingDongDoug pointed to provides a good diagram of which truck aux wire matches to which switch. For grounding I used one of the grounding posts near the battery. Dont forget to disconnect the battery before you start.

I'm using Aux 1 and 2 for the same reasons. Seems like the obvious choices.

Also, Id like to point out that these KC 4 bangers really light up those back roads at night. Its literally night and day compared to normal lighting on the truck. I had no idea that lights could be this effective.

As a side note. Be careful with the opaque light covers. The dealer that I use (and recently took the truck to for some recall work) left AUX 1, 2 and 5 in the "ON" position for who knows how long and melted the hell out of my KC light covers. They are refunding me the money for some new ones but damn.
Effen armatures.

 

[madeinchina]

I'm using Aux 1 and 2 for the same reasons. Seems like the obvious choices.

Also, Id like to point out that these KC 4 bangers really light up those back roads at night. Its literally night and day compared to normal lighting on the truck. I had no idea that lights could be this effective.

As a side note. Be careful with the opaque light covers. The dealer that I use (and recently took the truck to for some recall work) left AUX 1, 2 and 5 in the "ON" position for who knows how long and melted the hell out of my KC light covers. They are refunding me the money for some new ones but damn.
Effen armatures.


View attachment 5954

Dang that's good to know. I have those clear covers on, I'll be sure to take a close look at them whenever I end up running the lights for extended periods. Those look like custom light filters now lol.

 

[DingDongDoug]

Dang that's good to know. I have those clear covers on, I'll be sure to take a close look at them whenever I end up running the lights for extended periods. Those look like custom light filters now lol.

I'm sure the clear covers are going to be fine. KC is a great company and I imagine they were built to be run with the lights on.
But where I live (California) you have to cover the lights with an opaque covering in order to be legal. So I have to run these.

And yeah, I think I could technically skirt the law if I kept the melted ones on. That would be funny.
The light clearly goes right through them, but I believe I could still talk myself out of a ticket if I got pulled.

 

[madeinchina]

Swapped the passenger side to the SPV heavy duty a pillar bracket this afternoon. Light housing no longer sits up against the antenna. Takes a little bit of turning to fit the bracket into position but overall not too bad. Used some masking tape to cover up the fender and hood surfaces near the work area.

 

[miff01]

I ordered those SPV mounts last night. Definitely pricey for some bent metal, but if they do the job then worth it.

 

[DingDongDoug]

Swapped the passenger side to the SPV heavy duty a pillar bracket this afternoon. Light housing no longer sits up against the antenna. Takes a little bit of turning to fit the bracket into position but overall not too bad. Used some masking tape to cover up the fender and hood surfaces near the work area.

View attachment 5956View attachment 5957

That does look nice with a little more space between the light and the antenna. Having the lights swung out a bit further isn't a bad thing either. I'm pointing the lights slightly outside anyway to cover the side and front so these will work pretty good for me.
Is there only one mounting hole for the light to grip onto?

 

[DingDongDoug]

I ordered those SPV mounts last night. Definitely pricey for some bent metal, but if they do the job then worth it.

Agree. I didn't want to pay almost 200 for some mounts but if it keeps the lights from bouncing all over the place then its 200 well spent.