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1.5" Level Kit

@ETN what preload setting are you running on RAS for this result? Also, you have SD, not HD, correct?
I have SD, yep. And running the lesser pre-load tension. Honestly, SD seems plenty for a half ton truck.
 
Need some help guys.

i’m mid install with the Motofab 1.5” kit. my spacers measure 1”. i cannot, get the extended struts back in the vehicle.

i tried the method of inserting the bar pins, then jacking the assembly up into the top cup. i noticed the spring was rubbing the inner CV boot so i pulled out.

then i tried the method of dropping the two inner control arm bushings. my strut went in smooth this way, but im really struggling to jack up and reconnect the control arm bushings. i also noticed while doing this that the upper ball joint area of the upright is contacting the spring.

has anyone noticed these interferences during and/or after install, and what do you recommend to get me back together at this point?
 
Need some help guys.

i’m mid install with the Motofab 1.5” kit. my spacers measure 1”. i cannot, get the extended struts back in the vehicle.

i tried the method of inserting the bar pins, then jacking the assembly up into the top cup. i noticed the spring was rubbing the inner CV boot so i pulled out.

then i tried the method of dropping the two inner control arm bushings. my strut went in smooth this way, but im really struggling to jack up and reconnect the control arm bushings. i also noticed while doing this that the upper ball joint area of the upright is contacting the spring.

has anyone noticed these interferences during and/or after install, and what do you recommend to get me back together at this point?
I ran into the same problem but I went the route of disconnecting the axle nut and had a buddy helping me as I could move the knuckle far enough back to get the strut with spacer in. There is a vid on YouTube that showed a couple guys doing it the way you are and they said they had to use ratcheting cargo straps and connect them to the opposite side and pull the lower arm back in place and line it up that way.
Hopefully that will work for you.
Good luck
 
I've been trying to find the 1" rear blocks with kit (ubolts), cant find them anywhere. I have to go into Ford to see if they sell them but last I talked to them the guy at the parts counter was confused..... he kept saying i cant see the model number that works on your truck since I have the Tremor he cant see what would fit in his parts catalog. He may have been lazy or confused..... If anyone has found an online retailer that sells the 1" rear kit let me know. Thanks
 
I've been trying to find the 1" rear blocks with kit (ubolts), cant find them anywhere. I have to go into Ford to see if they sell them but last I talked to them the guy at the parts counter was confused..... he kept saying i cant see the model number that works on your truck since I have the Tremor he cant see what would fit in his parts catalog. He may have been lazy or confused..... If anyone has found an online retailer that sells the 1" rear kit let me know. Thanks
My local 4x4 shop had them in stock, but can call Rough Country and ask for them.
 
My local 4x4 shop had them in stock, but can call Rough Country and ask for them.
By the way which 4x4 shop did you use in k town, just curious because most of the ones around me stuttered because of COVID.
 
guys, i think this is my dilemma. top hat of strut sits at an angle. when i bolt the spacer to it the angle is reversed. the circled stud in the photo is high it needs to be low.
View attachment 29176

because of this, when the top is mounted, it’s kicking the strut outbound instead of inbound, and i can’t get the system all reconnected.

View attachment 29180

unfortunately tried swapping struts side to side, but on my 2023 the 3-hole mounting pattern is reversed, in other words, same strut on different sides = same problem.

i think the solution is to use a spring compressor and rotate top hat 180 degrees.

i would image this is the same for any puck style kit but i’m surprised i haven’t heard anyone discussing it and it’s not in the instructions? ReadyLift is the only company I found who mentions this in the instructions.

any feedback or advice would be appreciated.
Hey Johnny,

I definitely did NOT have to turn the top hat portion. In fact I have never heard of that for the puck install. Yes you need to rotate the shock 180 degrees to get it line back up for the install after the spacer is on but that is it. One thing that happened to me on the 2nd side that I did was the top portion turned slightly when i was installing the spacer. So when the 3 top studs were lined up in the upper mount the bottom two studs were off about 10 degrees. I put upper portion in and the 3 nuts on loose then was able to turn the bottom two mounting bolts and aligned them. It was easy to turn.

Hope that helps. Good luck
Cheers
 
I have the Autosprings version where the spacer is offset. My installer said they were definitely designed for the F150 and made it really easy to install.
 
What exactly do they mean when the say the leveling spacer is “offset”?

I have the AS 1.5” leveling spacer kit waiting for me to install. And I don’t see an offset. Other than what looks like the strut will be mounted back on after turning it 180 degrees.

Also my spacers measure 1.25 inches. Which I think will be more than an 1.5 inch lift. But we will see about that.
 
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Looks pretty square to me. I did just look at the AS website and found that the 1.5 inch kit does not say it’s offset like the 2 inch kit does. Maybe the 1.5 kit doesn’t need to be offset?
 
i believe offset doesn’t have to do with square or not. offset is in the radial direction.

since your spacer has an opposing hole pattern, you may run into the same issue i did. check your frame where the 3 strut studs mount - does the drivers side have one stud FWD two studs back? and passenger side has two studs forward one stud back?
 
i believe offset doesn’t have to do with square or not. offset is in the radial direction.

since your spacer has an opposing hole pattern, you may run into the same issue i did. check your frame where the 3 strut studs mount - does the drivers side have one stud FWD two studs back? and passenger side has two studs forward one stud back?
I don’t have my truck with me at work. But I will get back to you with that info.

But here are some more pics of it on its side. It must have a slight offset between top and bottom. Or it’s the powder coating. Or it’s something from the manufacturing process. But both do the same thing in the same spots. I suppose I can call AS to confirm
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My local 4x4 shop had them in stock, but can call Rough Country and ask for them.
I called RC, they are shipping a set out to me for $65 includes U bolts. It's not something that you can order straight from their website, have to call them. They sold me the composite blocks the guy said same performance as cast iron blocks but far less weight.
 
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OK got my 2023 passenger side reassembled with Motofab 1.5” puck and, at full droop (which could occur anytime one or both wheels are off the ground) I have interference:

- Outer CV Boot contacts lower Shock Bushing
- Upper Control arm contacts Frame
- Upper Control arm contacts Spring

Has anyone carefully inspected their leveled suspension at full droop to see if there’s interference like this?

I suppose it’s possible the 2023 struts were longer than previous years?

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1.5" Motofab level installed, with 290/70R18 Nitto Recon, and RAS. Pics/measurements, and some notes/impressions after-

Original:
Front 38 1/2
Rear 43
Rake 4 1/2
View attachment 18214

Replaced 2.25" Rear block with 1" RC block
Front 38 3/4 (up 1/4)
Rear 41 3/4 (down 1 1/4)
Rake 3
View attachment 18210

Add Nitto Recon 295/70R18
View attachment 18211

Add Motofab 1.5"
Front 40 1/4 (up 1 1/2)
Rear 41 3/4 (neutral)
Rake 1 1/2
View attachment 18212

Add RAS
Front 40 1/4
Rear 42 1/2 (up 3/4)
Rake 2 1/4
View attachment 18213


Impressions-

1.5" Motofab: Can't say I notice much difference in ride quality. Definitely enjoy the added height, in drivers seat. With Recons, definitely more aggressive, yet civilized. 295/70R18 have plenty of room, front and back (1/2 to 3/4) and plenty of room for UCA. Reasons for 1.5 (instead of bigger): mainly, I don't like deviating from engineered design more than I have to. Joints and angles are made the way they are for a reason from OEM. Worth mentioning also, when I called dealership a couple weeks ago to quote alignment, they volunteered that anything over 3" voids warranty on F150, and that with Tremor up 1" already, owners have 2" discretion.

Nitto Recon: I ordered the 116S (6 ply) from Discount, but after install and getting home, I realized they incorrectly installed a set of 129/126R (10 ply/E rated). Thought about returning, but (with a few days on them) while I can notice a difference, it's one I can live with. It's a truck. If doing over, may have gone with 285/75R18 instead, but me and 295/70 friends now.

RAS: As stated, I wanted to be able to handle plenty of payload with a more leveled truck (besides the fact I prefer a couple inches rake on a truck) and not squat. And anticipate a camper in next couple years anyway, so figured I might as well do RAS instead of reverting to original blocks, re rake. Super simple install.

Fuel will likely dip from 17.5 avg, with bigger/heavier tire and less rake. Can't tell if I'm imagining a slight decrease in power or not, with bigger/heavier tire, but not terrible.

Overall, very satisfied with choices. Hit exactly what I was shooting for.

Update: after 4k miles on the heavier recons, the 17.5 combined has only gone down to 17.2 combined.
So you got 0in in the rear and 1.5 in the front by going from stock tires to motofab + recons? How is it possible? Got 0 height from new tires?
 
So you got 0in in the rear and 1.5 in the front by going from stock tires to motofab + recons? How is it possible? Got 0 height from new tires?
That's what the tape said that day, in (level) garage. Plausible there was some variation in tire pressure, but the more likely factor, is that there was some time (sev thousand miles) between prior measurement (rear block replacement) and adding Recon/Motofab at 6k mi, with suspension likely settling in interim.
 
That's what the tape said that day, in (level) garage. Plausible there was some variation in tire pressure, but the more likely factor, is that there was some time (sev thousand miles) between prior measurement (rear block replacement) and adding Recon/Motofab at 6k mi, with suspension likely settling in interim.
Interesting. The tires don’t look bigger on the photo, which is why I was wondering. Can you measure the tire diameter of your Recon mounted?
 
Autospring 2" front no blocks rear stock tires and wheels. I like the look and rides like stock. 25k miles and not one problem.
 
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