Aux switch wiring?

Had some loud horns installed (I have to drive in Miami and Broward sometimes). They used the power from the third upfitter switch on the power side of two relays, with a tap from the horn on the 2 relay actuation sides. Not real happy with it as it works intermittently and blows fuses. I know enough about electrical to get in trouble and thought I could solve the problem by adding a third relay which would allow me to tap the battery for the power side of the solenoids. Sketch below. Any reason this will not work? Upfitter switch closes solenoid sending battery power to two downstream solenoids, triggered by the horn tap. Does anybody know how much power these solenoids typically draw on the actuation (not power) side?

I hate to break it to you, but those are not loud horns or even quality. Any horn that uses an instant on compressor will have this problem even if you had them wired correctly. Are they wired as the instructions say right now? If so then terminal 86 would be to "ARM" the horns and wired to the upfitter switch. Then when you introduce the ground through the switch (terminal 85) the circuit becomes complete and sounds the horns. As Yeti mentioned your total load is 60 amps. Two 30 Amp circuits wired in parallel. Adding the third relay in your drawing would actually make it worse and is unnecessary. Unless you do not have them wired like the instructions and more like your picture. If this is the case you would want a cut out solenoid like a winch set up that can handle the high current draw.
 
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Two things without looking too deep.
1. A 40 amp relay and switch feeding a 60 amp circuit.
2. The instructions show a ground side switch. Not sure why but it may be important.
60 amp relay and 60 amp fuse on the ground side may be the answer
see what rating the switch that came with it is.
The ground switch is so you can have an "ARM" circuit.
 
Thanks for the input. My sketch above shows the proposed alignment. Currently power is coming from a 15 Amp upfitter switch power source split to the power side of the two relays/compressors on the right, and it does drive the horns sometimes (very lame by the installer). Yeah, might be better to find a 60 amp relay. Worst case it will blow the 40 amp fuse, and I kind of doubt these small compressors will draw 30 amps (very large low-loss cable going to the compressors). I have a clamp meter which can measure DC amps so I can check the actual current draw. My biggest concern is the logic of using one relay to energize the power side of the two downstream relays, thought I can't see any issue aside from the fact that if the compressors really draw 30 amps each, it will blow the upstream fuse / relay. At first I wanted to just have the horn to the upfitter switch, but the installer thought better to be connected to the horn circuit to avoid accidental actuation. For these relays, supposedly hot side or ground side actuation shouldn't matter according to the sketch here for normally open relays. The kit didn't come with a switch. Maybe with real power coming to the compressors the horns will be louder, but even with only 7.5 amps going to each they are really loud. Oh I corrected my original question as I used the word solenoid instead of relay. There are no solenoids.
Wait, the aux switch is the 12V source? Nope, not gonna happen.

2 compressors, 2 30 amp relays 12V coming from the battery to each relay (2 separate wires) with a 30 amp fuse before each relay
Both relay activations should be from the aux switch on the positive side (to allow it to work) with your horn activating a solenoid/ switch/relay on the ground side for both compressors. Ground side should be 4awg to solenoid/switch then 2 10 awg wires to the ground of the compressors
 
Or check all of your current wiring for good connections
 
On a side note, I had Nathan K5LA AirChime's on my Monroe Kodiak. They were ridiculous, tempting and dangerous. Never again.
 
Wait, the aux switch is the 12V source? Nope, not gonna happen.

2 compressors, 2 30 amp relays 12V coming from the battery to each relay (2 separate wires) with a 30 amp fuse before each relay
Both relay activations should be from the aux switch on the positive side (to allow it to work) with your horn activating a solenoid/ switch/relay on the ground side for both compressors. Ground side should be 4awg to solenoid/switch then 2 10 awg wires to the ground of the compressors
Ok, now that sounds smarter, third relay for closing the activation circuit instead of carrying the power load.
 
Aux switch activates the 2 relays allowing 12v from battery to go into the compressors. No need for a third relay.
 
When y’all took battery out to get to Red bundle of Aux dod you
Have to “recalibrate” windows and or battery rest thing??? Pain to have to take battery out. F250 Tremor did not need to…
 
When y’all took battery out to get to Red bundle of Aux dod you
Have to “recalibrate” windows and or battery rest thing??? Pain to have to take battery out. F250 Tremor did not need to…
Only thing my 401 makes me re do is a few basic guage cluster settings that’s it.
 
If I may ask a question 🙋‍♂️ Does anyone have the wire harness pin layout for a 2022 Ford F150 raptor ? I’m trying to build my own wire harness. I’ve allocated a 2022 f150 raptor overhead console and I just ordered a connector for plugging into the upfitters above the console as well as the pins themselves but I’m having a hell of a time trying to figure out which pin controls what exactly 🤔 any help anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated 🙏🙏✌️
 
If I may ask a question 🙋‍♂️ Does anyone have the wire harness pin layout for a 2022 Ford F150 raptor ? I’m trying to build my own wire harness. I’ve allocated a 2022 f150 raptor overhead console and I just ordered a connector for plugging into the upfitters above the console as well as the pins themselves but I’m having a hell of a time trying to figure out which pin controls what exactly 🤔 any help anyone can provide would be greatly appreciated 🙏🙏✌️
This?

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Yes I’m looking for this exact diagram but for a 2022 raptor. I don’t know why but people keep saying that there’s a difference between a 2021 and a 2022 raptor pin out diagram 🤷🏻‍♂️ I can’t figure out if this is true or not. Someone said this is the correct diagram. Screenshot below ⬇️ I even found someone on eBay selling open for $25 bucks but the wire colors don’t match up 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️
 

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Yes I’m looking for this exact diagram but for a 2022 raptor. I don’t know why but people keep saying that there’s a difference between a 2021 and a 2022 raptor pin out diagram 🤷🏻‍♂️ I can’t figure out if this is true or not. Someone said this is the correct diagram. Screenshot below ⬇️ I even found someone on eBay selling open for $25 bucks but the wire colors don’t match up 🤔🤷🏻‍♂️
The one you posted does require a different harness. Have you researched the difference between harness 14334 and 15A404? I say this often, but I don't know why anyone would want to do this when there is the Switch-Pro. Better in every way.
 
Is there a schematic that shows location of Upfitter switch fuses 1-4? The table identifies them in position 60-63 but they nt on the diagram 🤔
 
Question for wiring GURUs? I have 6 Rigid 3" Pods. Rigid says 2 lights only for each of their wiring harnesses. I have 3 harnesses. Will 1 Upfitter switch be able to trigger the 3 relays or do I have to waste 3 upfitter Switches? Thanks
 
Question for wiring GURUs? I have 6 Rigid 3" Pods. Rigid says 2 lights only for each of their wiring harnesses. I have 3 harnesses. Will 1 Upfitter switch be able to trigger the 3 relays or do I have to waste 3 upfitter Switches? Thanks
you shouldn't have any issue using a single upfitter to trigger the relays. now, fitting all the extra wire from 3 separate harness in the engine bay somewhere? that's a different concern. haha. but you'll be fine.
 
I agree, with @Cblaxx19 , relay triggering is low current you should be good to use one switch. I would even go so far to say the 5amp non relayed switches (I think #5, 6 but don't quote me) would even suffice for triggering those three relays.
 
I agree, with @Cblaxx19 , relay triggering is low current you should be good to use one switch. I would even go so far to say the 5amp non relayed switches (I think #5, 6 but don't quote me) would even suffice for triggering those three relays.
this, i run all my backlight directly through upfitter 6. i didn't suggest this purely cause he already has the harnesses and i assume he doesnt want to start hacking them up. (like i did to all of mine)
 

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