Custom Third Brake Light/Chase light

[Cblaxx19]

Very cool looking!
What are you thinking as far as final build material? Metal/aluminum? I have a few metal manufacturers I know down in Florida I can put you in touch with if you don’t have anyone yet.

currently aluminum is the plan, possibly cerakoated.

I've mainly been looking at companies like protolabs for manufacturing just due to ease of use. but they are a middleman. I could liekly get some lower cost by going direct to someone. My worry is that they might want an actual drawing rather than just a model file. but i may be worrying about that for no reason.

im open to referrals for places.

 

[CrankCase]

PM sent on some fabricators.

 

[SpaceWhiteF150]

Is the reason your using SSC1’s for the C1R?

The other companies use a 2 diode pod with separate red lights tied to factory wiring for running and brake light function. You can’t even get an amber C1R. So what’s your plan for the layout of the pods?
Just trying to figure out what your trying to do.

 

[Cblaxx19]

Is the reason your using SSC1’s for the C1R?

The other companies use a 2 diode pod with separate red lights tied to factory wiring for running and brake light function. You can’t even get an amber C1R. So what’s your plan for the layout of the pods?
Just trying to figure out what your trying to do.

There’s a few reasons I’m doing what I’m doing.

1) I don’t see the point in making the same thing that others already make. So I want to use diode lights since no one else uses them.

2)I decided against the ssc2’s (the equivalent to the Baja s2 that everyone else uses) because of the camera being mounted in the center. I’d have only been able to use 2 of them, which makes it harder to include the various colors for all the desired functions.

3) the c1r takes care of all the running/brake, reverse/cargo lighting in a single pod.

You can swap a yellow lens onto the c1r and the red lighting still works.

So with 4 pods, I plan to have the 2 inner pods be white for the cargo/reverse lighting.

The 2 outer pods would be yellow lens swapped for chase light function.

All 4 will act as running/brake lighting.

I have finished rebuilding my model and printed a full size mock up. Everything looks to be worked out.

In the end. I’ve shrunk the overall size down a bit from the original. It’s way simpler from a model/machining standpoint.

My next step is to make it out of metal for full blown testing.

I have a friend with a machine shop who has said he’d make me one to test.

 

[SpaceWhiteF150]

There’s a few reasons I’m doing what I’m doing.

1) I don’t see the point in making the same thing that others already make. So I want to use diode lights since no one else uses them.

2)I decided against the ssc2’s (the equivalent to the Baja s2 that everyone else uses) because of the camera being mounted in the center. I’d have only been able to use 2 of them, which makes it harder to include the various colors for all the desired functions.

3) the c1r takes care of all the running/brake, reverse/cargo lighting in a single pod.

You can swap a yellow lens onto the c1r and the red lighting still works.
View attachment 26725

So with 4 pods, I plan to have the 2 inner pods be white for the cargo/reverse lighting.

The 2 outer pods would be yellow lens swapped for chase light function.

All 4 will act as running/brake lighting.
View attachment 26726

I have finished rebuilding my model and printed a full size mock up. Everything looks to be worked out.
View attachment 26727

View attachment 26728

View attachment 26730


In the end. I’ve shrunk the overall size down a bit from the original. It’s way simpler from a model/machining standpoint.

My next step is to make it out of metal for full blown testing.

I have a friend with a machine shop who has said he’d make me one to test.

Awesome!

 

[ngeiman2002]

I like it can you also make some with out the camera i am game to buy one

 

[Cblaxx19]

I like it can you also make some with out the camera i am game to buy one

it would be a good opportunity to add the bed camera back in that ford shorted you on

 

[Cblaxx19]

I'm in a bit of an "analysis paralysis" phase. I think I've captured everything and "should" be good to go. but I'm worried there is something I've missed and making this thing out of metal isn't cheap(especially as a single piece buy). I don't want to have it made and find that i missed something and have to do it again.

so im currently sitting on the design trying to make sure i cant come up with any other things i need to change.

i do have some test gasket material coming in the mail today to mess with. so thats at least something i can progress while i mull the design over.

i also have to start working on a harness to handle all of the functions.

 

[Fozzy]

I'm in a bit of an "analysis paralysis" phase. I think I've captured everything and "should" be good to go. but I'm worried there is something I've missed and making this thing out of metal isn't cheap(especially as a single piece buy). I don't want to have it made and find that i missed something and have to do it again.

so im currently sitting on the design trying to make sure i cant come up with any other things i need to change.

i do have some test gasket material coming in the mail today to mess with. so thats at least something i can progress while i mull the design over.

i also have to start working on a harness to handle all of the functions.

Have you checked the camera view to make sure none of the frame get caught in the picture? It's also missing an antenna mount.

 

[Cblaxx19]

Have you checked the camera view to make sure none of the frame get caught in the picture? It's also missing an antenna mount.

i have once, but definitely a good idea to recheck it again.

i havent put any thought into an antenna mount since i havent been too interested in one myself.

do you know of a typical mount used that i could look into incorporating?

 

[ProSAM01]

Also following and very interested. In my case it's likely I could have a topper/camper setup and would then need to add this arrangement to the new rear of the topper - if I could tie to the brake light and cargo light function but separately go Aux for the chase light function that would be excellent! My '23 came with the CHMC camera delete situation however likely works out given I will go to a topper or cab-level rack either way. So perhaps you also have a market here for an "OEM-style" relocate package in the works with this. Good luck...love that you are able to execute this design!

 

[Fozzy]

i have once, but definitely a good idea to recheck it again.

i havent put any thought into an antenna mount since i havent been too interested in one myself.

do you know of a typical mount used that i could look into incorporating?

Only reason I ask about the picture is we just put a bunch of camera relocation kits on some trucks at work. taking the pickup bed off and installing flat beds. The kits try to protect the camera and you see the brackets in the screen. We lost of bunch of visibility from the camera. Looks like you are using a peep hole now. Antenna mount would be cool as people looking for Dust Lights or Chase Lights would also have comms. a regular NMO mount is what most use. But some of the light mounts are pushing $900.00. And I know from so many of the comments, Tremor people are not Raptor spenders. Can't wait to seem them wired up and working. It's going to look killer when machined.

 

[Cblaxx19]

Only reason I ask about the picture is we just put a bunch of camera relocation kits on some trucks at work. taking the pickup bed off and installing flat beds. The kits try to protect the camera and you see the brackets in the screen. We lost of bunch of visibility from the camera. Looks like you are using a peep hole now. Antenna mount would be cool as people looking for Dust Lights or Chase Lights would also have comms. a regular NMO mount is what most use. But some of the light mounts are pushing $900.00. And I know from so many of the comments, Tremor people are not Raptor spenders. Can't wait to seem them wired up and working. It's going to look killer when machined.

View attachment 26865

I spent a little time today looking at the model and trying to decide if I had any issues. I ended up adding a chamfer to the camera opening to pull the edge away just in case. in the testing I did, I could see a very minor amount of the housing but it was more like stringyness from my print than the actual housing, but to be safe I added the chamfer to give additional clearance.

the NMO mount is a little more complicated than it seems on the surface since i have the camera centered and pods on either side. in order to make the relief cut that you see in the pic you shared, i need a wide open cavity to get a fly cutter or something into, which isnt currently built into my model and isnt just a "make a cavity situation since i have the camera mount features in the center area like that.

not saying its not doable, just that upon initial inspection, the current model doesn't support it easily.

I've been trying to find some better pictures of that RPG housing to see how they simplified the camera mount since from the shared picture it looks way simpler than the oem geometry that I've tried to copy. that could lend some space to add the nmo mount more easily,

 

[Cblaxx19]

ok, i spent a little time on this project this weekend.

ive managed to simplify the camera mount a bit, allowing for a larger cavity that is both easier to machine out and allows for space to machine the necessary features for the NMO mount.

now, im having trouble defining what those features actually need to be... any input is welcome!

i also got to mess with the laser cutter that my mom got for christmas and used it to cuts some test gaskets. they are a little small so i need to tweak how i converted the back profile into a flat pattern, but its close.

 

[CrankCase]

Do you need an antenna and cable to test fit? I’m pretty sure I have some laying around I can send you. I have the shorty and mid rise (no whip style) antennas. Both have the same footprint. I also have a weather cap that can go on when there is no antenna. It does have a slightly larger footprint than an actual antenna.
The underside (where the cable is) typically is a 90* hookup so not much depth is needed above that camera.
Let me know if you want me to send you anything.

 

[Cblaxx19]

Do you need an antenna and cable to test fit? I’m pretty sure I have some laying around I can send you. I have the shorty and mid rise (no whip style) antennas. Both have the same footprint. I also have a weather cap that can go on when there is no antenna. It does have a slightly larger footprint than an actual antenna.
The underside (where the cable is) typically is a 90* hookup so not much depth is needed above that camera.
Let me know if you want me to send you anything.

if what you have is pretty standard, then a test unit would certainly be helpful.

from my research, it looks like there are generally 2 NMO options, a 3/8" through hole or a 3/4" through hole option. i just couldn't find the specs for exactly what i needed to build into the brake light to be able to install whichever option. i just wasn't sure what kind of threading is needed, and any necessary clearance info.

 

[CrankCase]

The 3/8 is the most common for a VHF/UHF antenna….which is what the vast majority of people will use. The 3/4 is more GMRS and CB, both of which use a larger and longer antenna, not something you’d want on the roof.
PM me your address and I will get a set up shipped out to you.

 

[Badmothertrucker]

it was a fairly productive weekend in getting some design time for the third brake light.

Friday night i spent reverse engineering the bezel on the SSC1 pods. it has some specific geometry that engages the gasket around the lens for sealing purposes. I intend to replicate that sealing surface on the inside of the housing to flush mount the pods.
View attachment 26321
I printed some bezels to test fitment and then actually tested the sealing by spraying a pod with the hose and then opening up the pod to see if any water got in. it was successful.

moving to the ssc1's frees up space and makes the light look cleaner in my opinion, as well as significantly more performance. the C1R pod variant has a red backlight, a high power red brake function, and a high power white reverse function. this takes care of running, brake and reverse/bed lighting.

then 2 yellow pods can act as chase lights.
View attachment 26320

I also have been working on finalizing the camera mount and making sure that i managed to replicate the mount interface properly. a couple of prototype prints have helped in confirming fitment.
View attachment 26322
View attachment 26323

Also started cleaning up my model and simplifying it for manufacturing.
View attachment 26329


ill probably do a full up print by the end of the week to put up on the truck to see what it looks like.

It would be really great if you could also upgrade the camera resolution. This could help capture more sales, the current truck bed view is grainy, lousy.

 

[Cblaxx19]

It would be really great if you could also upgrade the camera resolution. This could help capture more sales, the current truck bed view is grainy, lousy.

someone else already asked about this. and from everything ive read, its not a camera problem, its a problem with the system's ability to leverage a better camera and the higher data bandwidth that comes along with it. so, nothing i can really do there.

 

[TexasTea]

It’s common on euro vehicles to have a “rear fog light” that comes on when you activate the front fog lights (I was thinking aux switch). It’s like constant brake light brightness from a non-brake light location (but often in the same housing).

The point is to let help people see you as they approach, but not give the impression you’re currently braking.

People in the US love to use their hazards for this purpose FL even has traffic signs telling people explicitly not to use their hazards for this purpose.

I have NO idea why the US regulators don't want us to have a rear fog.... more important than the front fog IMHO!!