What's new

A brief word on 2.5" Leveling Kits & CV Angles.

Correct me if Im wrong. But the CV's in these trucks dont turn anyways unless your in 4x4. The actual amount of wear is minimal on them. If they get 1000 miles in there lifetime at high angle that causes excessive wear, That would probably be a lot.
 
Correct me if Im wrong. But the CV's in these trucks dont turn anyways unless your in 4x4. The actual amount of wear is minimal on them. If they get 1000 miles in there lifetime at high angle that causes excessive wear, That would probably be a lot.
I believe that is correct that they only turn when engaged but I've easily put 1000 miles in 4A already and I've got less than 9k on the clock so far.

I also come from the Toyota world (where we actually use our 4x4 regularly) so I've replaced enough CVs on the side of the trail for one lifetime.
 
Correct me if Im wrong. But the CV's in these trucks dont turn anyways unless your in 4x4. The actual amount of wear is minimal on them. If they get 1000 miles in there lifetime at high angle that causes excessive wear, That would probably be a lot.
With the known reliability of the IWE system, I am sure they turn way more than you think. And that is a good thing. The CV's still move with the suspension and if they stayed locked in one place they would have abnormal wear on the balls and cups that can actually cause failure when you use four wheel drive. Boot wear is the concern for city drivers. But it doesn't take much to break a CV or axle at these angles when in four wheel drive under power. Don't forget the tie rods are at the same steep angle causing it's own small problems. But like Bannerman said, people that use their 4x4 know all about the problems. I also love 4 auto for the winter.
 
I posted this to the Tremor FB group but I know alot of you guys are smart and stay off Facebag so I figured I would copypasta it here.


Over the past couple of days I have seen several posts where guys are concerned with their CV angles after installing a 2.5" level so I thought I would jot down some thoughts.
Summary first: you are right to be concerned.

As you know our trucks have a 1" front lift relative to a regular F-150. 2.5" of lift is generally the rule of thumb to stay at or under with IFS to keep angles safe, with 3" being the absolute maximum. When you lift your Tremor 2.5" you have an effective 3.5" lift. As a result, yes, your CVs are at an angle where you will start to see boot wear. Because there is also no diff spacer available for Fords like Toyota, if you want to lift that much your really need to start thinking about a drop bracket kit, though I don't think anyone who has spent any real time offroad would recommend that to you.

Personally I have adjustable coilovers spun all the way out so that I have a net of 1.5" over stock Tremor height, 2.5" over regular F-150. Still easily clears 285/75R18 (34.8") tires, and sits level when I tow a moderate load. Have about 1.5-2" of rake unloaded.

I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do or start any arguments, but you should just be aware of what the consequences could be long term if you go this route.


View attachment 13277View attachment 13278View attachment 13279
Best looking Tremor on here, IMO. Well done. Do you have any front/rear shots to see how much tire sticks out of the fender? Hate “poke” lol. Especially the the roads I drive.
 
Best looking Tremor on here, IMO. Well done. Do you have any front/rear shots to see how much tire sticks out of the fender? Hate “poke” lol. Especially the the roads I drive.
Thanks. Stock wheels so only additional width would be due to the wider tires. 285s vs 265 so 10mm more on the outside. Still basically flush, don't think I have a straight on shot.


IMG_8871.webp
 
I posted this to the Tremor FB group but I know alot of you guys are smart and stay off Facebag so I figured I would copypasta it here.


Over the past couple of days I have seen several posts where guys are concerned with their CV angles after installing a 2.5" level so I thought I would jot down some thoughts.
Summary first: you are right to be concerned.

As you know our trucks have a 1" front lift relative to a regular F-150. 2.5" of lift is generally the rule of thumb to stay at or under with IFS to keep angles safe, with 3" being the absolute maximum. When you lift your Tremor 2.5" you have an effective 3.5" lift. As a result, yes, your CVs are at an angle where you will start to see boot wear. Because there is also no diff spacer available for Fords like Toyota, if you want to lift that much your really need to start thinking about a drop bracket kit, though I don't think anyone who has spent any real time offroad would recommend that to you.

Personally I have adjustable coilovers spun all the way out so that I have a net of 1.5" over stock Tremor height, 2.5" over regular F-150. Still easily clears 285/75R18 (34.8") tires, and sits level when I tow a moderate load. Have about 1.5-2" of rake unloaded.

I'm not trying to tell anyone what to do or start any arguments, but you should just be aware of what the consequences could be long term if you go this route.


View attachment 13277View attachment 13278View attachment 13279
Did you leave stock rear block? If not did which one did you get?
 
Stock block.
Cool.
Stock block.
cool. Where I hunt it can get a little challenging so want to lift a little in front to improve approach going through dry creeks and get batter suspension running down dirt roads. Halo seems like best option and will blindly follow your lead ha ha. Seems like best set up so far and everyone has been happy.
 
Cool.

cool. Where I hunt it can get a little challenging so want to lift a little in front to improve approach going through dry creeks and get batter suspension running down dirt roads. Halo seems like best option and will blindly follow your lead ha ha. Seems like best set up so far and everyone has been happy.
I've got no complaints.


IMG_9463.webp
 
So do we have a 3 inch factory block??? I thought after more dang research I would look at 2.5 tapered block… pros and cons of that switch?
 
So do we have a 3 inch factory block??? I thought after more dang research I would look at 2.5 tapered block… pros and cons of that switch?
Factory is 2.25 FYI
 
Trying to figure out my best easy option here. Think I've read pretty much every related thread on the forum. I (infrequently) tow/payload slightly more than your rig. Also dislike the raked look. What would the functional difference between doing this and a 1" puck be?
 
Trying to figure out my best easy option here. Think I've read pretty much every related thread on the forum. I (infrequently) tow/payload slightly more than your rig. Also dislike the raked look. What would the functional difference between doing this and a 1" puck be?
If you keep it on the road most of the time, there is nothing wrong with a puck/spacer.
 
Trying to figure out my best easy option here. Think I've read pretty much every related thread on the forum. I (infrequently) tow/payload slightly more than your rig. Also dislike the raked look. What would the functional difference between doing this and a 1" puck be?
You would keep the rear height for when you tow or haul, these things are designed to articulate over obstacles so with that being said they are a little soft and tend to squat with only about 500-600lbs. So honestly the cheapest route may be to go with a puck, there are several right around the $100 mark, unless you found a block that you could lower the rear for cheaper, also if you increase tire size the puck would allow you to run a 295/70 with out much issue.
 
You would keep the rear height for when you tow or haul, these things are designed to articulate over obstacles so with that being said they are a little soft and tend to squat with only about 500-600lbs. So honestly the cheapest route may be to go with a puck, there are several right around the $100 mark, unless you found a block that you could lower the rear for cheaper, also if you increase tire size the puck would allow you to run a 295/70 with out much issue.
@nestera you could also run a 285/75 even easier, narrower and taller but fit's better and better performance.
 
Appreciate the quick replies! I think I'll probably go that direction then for simplicity. Given the truck's price tag I'm not too concerned with budget on this though. Should I have a shop do the install or do it myself? I am only familiar with bolting things on good and tight.
 
Appreciate the quick replies! I think I'll probably go that direction then for simplicity. Given the truck's price tag I'm not too concerned with budget on this though. Should I have a shop do the install or do it myself? I am only familiar with bolting things on good and tight.
I was not happy with the ride of the stock suspension, so going with a more premium option was no-brainer for me. It's def DIY if you are handy, but if you question your ability, just have a shop do it. Hate to see you get your front end torn apart in your garage and not be able to get it back together.
 
Appreciate the quick replies! I think I'll probably go that direction then for simplicity. Given the truck's price tag I'm not too concerned with budget on this though. Should I have a shop do the install or do it myself? I am only familiar with bolting things on good and tight.
It all depends on what your comfortable with, if you do a puck it requires removing the coilovers and adding the puck to the top of it, then reinstalling, you most likely will need to separate the UCA to do this, but it's not hard.
 
Back
Top