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A brief word on 2.5" Leveling Kits & CV Angles.

Does not matter how the truck is lifted. It can be a $10K race shock or a block of wood. The angles will be the same if lifted the same height. Unless you use a diff drop or longer A-arms and axles. Usable travel and performance will change, but not CV angle.

View attachment 13656
True, but in the case of the pro-comp 62206, the 1/2" spacer that goes between the strut tower and body would not affect the angle. Am I thinking about that correctly?

I just want to make sure the effective lift is no more than 3" (1" from the factory and 2" from the spacer at the top of the spring/shock). I'm thinking of that 1/2" spacer as a 'body lift'. Theoretically you could put any 'body lift' you want on the truck without it changing the angles. Granted it would look dumb to do something like a 6" 'body lift', but it should be possible.
 
True, but in the case of the pro-comp 62206, the 1/2" spacer that goes between the strut tower and body would not affect the angle. Am I thinking about that correctly?

I just want to make sure the effective lift is no more than 3" (1" from the factory and 2" from the spacer at the top of the spring/shock). I'm thinking of that 1/2" spacer as a 'body lift'. Theoretically you could put any 'body lift' you want on the truck without it changing the angles. Granted it would look dumb to do something like a 6" 'body lift', but it should be possible.
Not true, the lift height gain comes from the angle change on the A-arms. Doesn’t matter if it’s a longer strut, spacers, preload or a combination of all of them. It forces the angle to change producing the ride height increase. The Pro Comp 62206 does not use a body spacer. It uses a puck and pre load spacer.
 
True, but in the case of the pro-comp 62206, the 1/2" spacer that goes between the strut tower and body would not affect the angle. Am I thinking about that correctly?

I just want to make sure the effective lift is no more than 3" (1" from the factory and 2" from the spacer at the top of the spring/shock). I'm thinking of that 1/2" spacer as a 'body lift'. Theoretically you could put any 'body lift' you want on the truck without it changing the angles. Granted it would look dumb to do something like a 6" 'body lift', but it should be possible.
Nope. Angles will still be affected. Also, 3” is generally the MAX you want to see. 2.5” is the safer bet for long term reliability, and even then it may be reduced.
 
Interesting... I hadn't considered that the strut spacer would affect the angles. In my mind, I was thinking that it was (more or less) lifting the body up since it gets installed above the strut tower. Obviously the preload spacer would cause the angles to change because you're actually modifying the suspension.

With that in mind, I could still use the preload spacer (2") and be (relatively) safe, right? IF I used this kit, I could simply not install the strut spacer. Again, this truck will be mostly a DD and will not see significant off-road duty - I would use a Raptor for that.

I may be better off with only the 2" lift rather than 2 1/2" anyway. I have an HD Diamondback cover to install, and even though it's not that heavy, I absolutely don't want the truck to even appear higher in the front than the rear.
 
Interesting... I hadn't considered that the strut spacer would affect the angles. In my mind, I was thinking that it was (more or less) lifting the body up since it gets installed above the strut tower. Obviously the preload spacer would cause the angles to change because you're actually modifying the suspension.

With that in mind, I could still use the preload spacer (2") and be (relatively) safe, right? IF I used this kit, I could simply not install the strut spacer. Again, this truck will be mostly a DD and will not see significant off-road duty - I would use a Raptor for that.

I may be better off with only the 2" lift rather than 2 1/2" anyway. I have an HD Diamondback cover to install, and even though it's not that heavy, I absolutely don't want the truck to even appear higher in the front than the rear.
I’ve got a Diamondback HD. I think it’s only 120#
 
Over the past couple of days I have seen several posts where guys are concerned with their CV angles after installing a 2.5" level so I thought I would jot down some thoughts.
Summary first: you are right to be concerned.

As you know our trucks have a 1" front lift relative to a regular F-150. 2.5" of lift is generally the rule of thumb to stay at or under with IFS to keep angles safe, with 3" being the absolute maximum. When you lift your Tremor 2.5" you have an effective 3.5" lift. As a result, yes, your CVs are at an angle where you will start to see boot wear. Because there is also no diff spacer available for Fords like Toyota, if you want to lift that much your really need to start thinking about a drop bracket kit, though I don't think anyone who has spent any real time offroad would recommend that to you.

Personally I have adjustable coilovers spun all the way out so that I have a net of 1.5" over stock Tremor height, 2.5" over regular F-150. Still easily clears 285/75R18 (34.8") tires, and sits level when I tow a moderate load. Have about 1.5-2" of rake unloaded.




View attachment 13278

Thanks for posting this, as well as all of your general help/knowledge/feedback on the forum. I’m going to pull the trigger here soon on the halo lift kit (I think), but just for general curiosity… are you comfortable with the CV angle here? I’m not super well versed on lifts/off-road stuff - all my tinkering was spent going faster than I should have been ;-)
Just curious if you’re comfortable with the CV angle pictured, and running our trucks with the additional 1.5 - 1.75 max lift. Thanks!!
 
I too have benefitted from @Bannerman ‘s knowledge and experimentation. 👍
You should check out the HaloLift thread - lots of good info there. For anyone purchasing that kit, be prepared to “dial it down” to take some of the lift out of it. It ships apparently dialed to add about 2.5” of lift on a regular F150. I (and @Bannerman) dialed basically ALL the way out and still got 1-5/8”-ish of lift over stock.
Super easy to adjust even once installed (actually more so once installed).
 
Thanks for posting this, as well as all of your general help/knowledge/feedback on the forum. I’m going to pull the trigger here soon on the halo lift kit (I think), but just for general curiosity… are you comfortable with the CV angle here? I’m not super well versed on lifts/off-road stuff - all my tinkering was spent going faster than I should have been ;-)
Just curious if you’re comfortable with the CV angle pictured, and running our trucks with the additional 1.5 - 1.75 max lift. Thanks!!
ANY change in CV angle from stock has the potential to diminish CV joint and boot lifespan. Everything is a trade off. That said, I am ok with the angles on my truck given the added performance. But coming from the Toyota world, I am used to pulling CVs, so if I have to change mine out a little more often than I otherwise would I am ok with that.
 
ANY change in CV angle from stock has the potential to diminish CV joint and boot lifespan. Everything is a trade off. That said, I am ok with the angles on my truck given the added performance. But coming from the Toyota world, I am used to pulling CVs, so if I have to change mine out a little more often than I otherwise would I am ok with that.
Rock on - thanks! That was my thinking as well, but always nice to get some reassurance!
 
My truck is scheduled in tomorrow for level. I was told they have the 2.5” pro comp and a 2.5 top of strut puck option. I feel more confident sticking to 2”. Would it be best to go with procomp kit and ask them to leave out top 1/2” spacer ?
 
My truck is scheduled in tomorrow for level. I was told they have the 2.5” pro comp and a 2.5 top of strut puck option. I feel more confident sticking to 2”. Would it be best to go with procomp kit and ask them to leave out top 1/2” spacer ?
I’d probably stick with the 2” at most. Even then would be pushing the angles I believe though many on here are running that without problems (so far).
 
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True, but in the case of the pro-comp 62206, the 1/2" spacer that goes between the strut tower and body would not affect the angle. Am I thinking about that correctly?

I just want to make sure the effective lift is no more than 3" (1" from the factory and 2" from the spacer at the top of the spring/shock). I'm thinking of that 1/2" spacer as a 'body lift'. Theoretically you could put any 'body lift' you want on the truck without it changing the angles. Granted it would look dumb to do something like a 6" 'body lift', but it should be possible.
So, hypothetically, I should be able to grab the 1/2" spacer from this kit and install for a 1" lift, right? Not that I'm gonna pay full price for a new 62206 for the two spacers, but feels like an inch up front would give me about the perfect look, with rear lowered an inch from factory, and 34-35" tires under her.
 
So, hypothetically, I should be able to grab the 1/2" spacer from this kit and install for a 1" lift, right? Not that I'm gonna pay full price for a new 62206 for the two spacers, but feels like an inch up front would give me about the perfect look, with rear lowered an inch from factory, and 34-35" tires under her.
It's not an even 2:1 ratio, 1/2" spacer will probably net you 3/4 or a just a little over. But with a 1/2" spacer you probably should consider your stud length on the top of the shock. I don't usually like to do more than 1/4" spacer, maybe 3/8", without going longer.
 
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So, hypothetically, I should be able to grab the 1/2" spacer from this kit and install for a 1" lift, right? Not that I'm gonna pay full price for a new 62206 for the two spacers, but feels like an inch up front would give me about the perfect look, with rear lowered an inch from factory, and 34-35" tires under her.
I agree with Bannerman, you probably wont see the full 1” of lift. I think the math is like 0.64” spacer for the full inch. MotFab makes a 1.5” spacer that has new studs on top. It’s like $60.00 on Amazon and made in the USA.
 
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Not considering Halo Lift? If you are close to Charlotte you're welcome to check mine out, see how you like the ride.
I’ve been scouring these pages for lift info and it seems the Halo is the way to go for me. My biggest concern is ride quality since I‘ll be using my truck for work trips from NJ to the Carolinas regularly. I’m hoping for a more planted/controlled feel but not too bumpy. What are your thoughts on ride quality vs. stock? I’ll be in Charlotte next week for work. Any chance I can take you up on this offer if needed?
 
I’m hoping for a more planted/controlled feel but not too bumpy.
That's generally how I would describe it. Rebound is similar to stock but compression is firmed up a bit so it feels less "floaty".

But you're welcome to check it out. Note that I have 35" E-Rated tires too so if you are keeping stock tires mine will feel slightly harsher than what yours would.
 
That's generally how I would describe it. Rebound is similar to stock but compression is firmed up a bit so it feels less "floaty".

But you're welcome to check it out. Note that I have 35" E-Rated tires too so if you are keeping stock tires mine will feel slightly harsher than what yours would.
That’s exactly what I’m looking for. Yes I’m running stock tires for now but may upgrade. Thanks for the reply and for all of the other valuable information you’ve supplied this forum. I‘ve learned quite a bit from your experience. Based on what you said I’m going to order the Halo system today. One last quick question that you may have already answered. Did you need to have your truck recalibrated for the assist features, blue cruise etc? I don’t mind having that done if necessary. It seems opinions differ on this subject. Thanks!
 
That’s exactly what I’m looking for. Yes I’m running stock tires for now but may upgrade. Thanks for the reply and for all of the other valuable information you’ve supplied this forum. I‘ve learned quite a bit from your experience. Based on what you said I’m going to order the Halo system today. One last quick question that you may have already answered. Did you need to have your truck recalibrated for the assist features, blue cruise etc? I don’t mind having that done if necessary. It seems opinions differ on this subject. Thanks!
With a 402A you should not need to have anything calibrated. Though @Cranbery did have an issue one time where his truck bumped a car in front of him, I don't know if it was caused by the change in front suspension geometry. I'm sure he can chime in.
 
@Icecreman dont forget to use the 10% off promo code!
 
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