Fu@k… don’t say that. My truck is only 5 days old. I’m hoping it’s the stupid ford pass software…it’s on the grid and I’m not a fan.
Just take it for a drive about 30-50 miles and then see what it says. That should clear it up.
Auto Start Stop is one reason I won’t get an F150. I know it can be disabled but I avoided it. Seems like it would add more wear than necessary to the starter.
You can have the auto start/stop removed, mine doesn't have it. As for the easy entry I love it it saves my knee caps when my wife borrows the truck.
I used to see this often when I used to go looking at vehicles when they used to have the lots stocked. People seem to forget there's a small current draw constantly keeping electronics alive. If you let the vehicle sit long enough without running it, you'll have a dead battery.
Yeah, but why am I getting this when both batteries are at 12.6 volts?
Did you load test the batteries independently of each other? I haven’t had a PS Superduty in a while so not sure if they are using the AGM. My 17’ gasser still has a lead acid. If so still top them off, 12.6 is only 85% Charged for an AGM. Like I said before that could just be the surface charge voltage. Some of the trucks had bad grounds or loose grounds. Plus so much tech that never rests and can go bad. Harbor Freight has a good digital load tester for $70.00 and you can easily find the old school ones for under $30.00
It happened to me the other day just as I getting ready to leave. I only have 130 miles on mine, so likely the battery isn't fully charged.
It should still be under warranty, untill it's not covered by warranty I would save cash and let Ford eat it on replacement, after warranty I've always ran optima yellow tops and had great luck. There's varied opinions on that and really the sky is the limit, they range from about $300 to $1500 for some of the newer style batteries.
It's all the lighting and connected services on these trucks, for example when I am helping my wife at her office I have to park at the other end of the parking lot or everytime I move it kicks the lights on, it's super sensitive, but I drive enough that I never have to worry about the battery draining. Dec. 8th was one year and I had 27, 186 miles. At least 7k of those were off-road. It's a fun truck, are there things that I wish were done differently, of course, but for the most part Ford hit a home run.
I’m slowly learning Tremor owners wont buy a $1,100.00 Snap-On load tester. Huge culture shock coming from the Raptor forums.
SIDE NOTE
FordBossMe did a video on the BMS of the new gen F-150’s. It looked like with the key on and the truck not running the load was around 18 amps. With the key off and the truck not running it was between 3-5 amps. That’s a lot of draw when parked. He also ran his battery dead with lots of short trips not letting it have time to charge. So trickle charging is off the plate. You would need at least 10 amps minimum to overcome the draw and charge the battery. Plus you need to have the ground on the back side of the BMS so the truck knows it being charged and will stop giving the warning on the screen and Ford Pass app.
Even when I don't have my FOB with me, the truck frequently makes clicking electronic noises from under the hood. I sometimes don't drive for an entire week, so I've gotten that message on every vehicle I've owned. I had a 16 Explorer and the battery went dead on that one. When I had my Edge ST, I had to charge the battery several times. Mine was on chip hold, so it sat for an extended period and I don't know if the dealer checked the battery during PDI or not, so a low battery is no surprise to me.
Driving a 2020 Ford Fusion, see it every day. Frustrating as I know I have plenty of battery life.
