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Tremor Rear Shock Options

@FaKtor34 If they're like filthy motorsports, they'll tell you that of course they work/fit with Tremor bc:
"The Tremor is no different than a standard F150 with some extra front end preload and UCAs. We’ve had a few customers provide us detailed measurements and the shocks are all the same and that 2” rear lift block is standard on all 4x4 F150s." 🤦😆
I've already spoke with Bilstein myself and posted what I was told by their tech support guy on the very shock, I just want to see what they get told.
 
@FaKtor34 If they're like filthy motorsports, they'll tell you that of course they work/fit with Tremor bc:
"The Tremor is no different than a standard F150 with some extra front end preload and UCAs. We’ve had a few customers provide us detailed measurements and the shocks are all the same and that 2” rear lift block is standard on all 4x4 F150s." 🤦😆
Yup. Notice I haven't spoken about Filthy since my call to them? That didn't sit right, with me.
 
The thing I liked about my call to Bilstein is the guy was very interested in the fact that their f150 shock wasn't the same length as the Tremor shock, he said and I quote " we are going to have to look into the Tremor some more, any feedback you can give us on these if you do decide to go with them will be greatly appreciated". Hopefully others may put a call into them and they may make something specific to the Tremor.
 
Just got my Bilstein 5160s, installing them Friday.
I'll let you know how it goes



Well I have to say these Bilstein 5160s are awesome.
I've been driving the truck around today & the ride is vastly better than stock shocks.
Thanks to everyone on this thread who helped out.
 

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Are we 100% certain of these numbers? Asking because I found some I'm interested in but they're .2" difference. Like I said, I'm not a suspension guy so idk how close is too close, but I understand longer compressed is no Bueno. Is even this small of a difference still too much?
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I tested my Fox/BDS (18.95" compressed) at max articulation on one side and the 3/8" thick rubber bumper for compression at bottom of shaft had no load on it so you're definitely good @Dfris

This much compression..
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I tested my Fox/BDS (18.95" compressed) at max articulation on one side and the 3/8" thick rubber bumper for compression at bottom of shaft had no load on it so you're definitely good @Dfris

This much compression..
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Thank you! The thread got so long I couldn't find anything that said lol
 
Whoooo. Well I’ve read through this thread probably a dozen times and it makes my head spin. This not having a Tremor specific option stuff is a struggle. Could anyone tell me if there is a rear shock option available that would raise my back like maybe an inch or close to it and give me a better ride or at least not make it worse?
 
Whoooo. Well I’ve read through this thread probably a dozen times and it makes my head spin. This not having a Tremor specific option stuff is a struggle. Could anyone tell me if there is a rear shock option available that would raise my back like maybe an inch or close to it and give me a better ride or at least not make it worse?

There's a summary a few pages back (page 5), I think Captain wrote it.
I didn't need any luft so I went with the Bilstein B8 5160s & theyre awesome
 
Whoooo. Well I’ve read through this thread probably a dozen times and it makes my head spin. This not having a Tremor specific option stuff is a struggle. Could anyone tell me if there is a rear shock option available that would raise my back like maybe an inch or close to it and give me a better ride or at least not make it worse?
Shocks dont dictate ride height/lift, springs and blocks do. Shocks do need to be paired correctly though for valving (ie. smooth ride) and stroke length.
 
So the settle I got in the rear didn’t come from the shocks settling?
 
So the settle I got in the rear didn’t come from the shocks settling?
Did you measure from center of hub to top of wheel well before and after putting on new shocks? Did you also put new shocks on the rear? Did you have a higher measurement on the rear after installing new rear shocks?

Many people measure from ground to top of wheel well, but that is not the best place to measure as it will reflect changes that are not really changes, ie. if you lift the front but do nothing on the rear, it can make the rear measure a bit shorter from the ground as the angle of the truck changes. Plus, measuring from center of hub is better for comparisons between different trucks as it takes tire size out of the equation.

And if you did get settling in the rear, that would be from the springs settling not the shocks since the leaf springs support the vehicle, the shocks just control the damping/rebound of the springs, just like up front the coil springs set the height/support the vehicles and the shocks control the motion.
 
Did you measure from center of hub to top of wheel well before and after putting on new shocks? Did you also put new shocks on the rear? Did you have a higher measurement on the rear after installing new rear shocks?

Many people measure from ground to top of wheel well, but that is not the best place to measure as it will reflect changes that are not really changes, ie. if you lift the front but do nothing on the rear, it can make the rear measure a bit shorter from the ground as the angle of the truck changes. Plus, measuring from center of hub is better for comparisons between different trucks as it takes tire size out of the equation.

And if you did get settling in the rear, that would be from the springs settling not the shocks since the leaf springs support the vehicle, the shocks just control the damping/rebound of the springs, just like up front the coil springs set the height/support the vehicles and the shocks control the motion.
I measured the best I could from the center of the hub to the top of the wheel well and I also measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well. The rear settled at least 3/4” from when it was new. I did not put on new rear shocks. I put on Eibach lift springs and front shocks. The problem is after doing that and the rear settling it left me with basically 1/4” of rake and I’m trying to figure out how to get some rake back. I know what you are saying about the leaf springs supporting the truck but I swear somewhere on here I read someone swapped out rear shocks and it ended up raising the back end.
 
I measured the best I could from the center of the hub to the top of the wheel well and I also measured from the ground to the top of the wheel well. The rear settled at least 3/4” from when it was new. I did not put on new rear shocks. I put on Eibach lift springs and front shocks. The problem is after doing that and the rear settling it left me with basically 1/4” of rake and I’m trying to figure out how to get some rake back. I know what you are saying about the leaf springs supporting the truck but I swear somewhere on here I read someone swapped out rear shocks and it ended up raising the back end.
Settling of springs is not unheard of, I just havent heard of it on F150s much. A gas charged shock could raise the rear a bit, so that is also a possible scenario, but I dont think there is a shock you could buy to guarantee you get some lift in the rear.

Cheapest/easiest way to raise the rear will be with a taller block. There are some 3" blocks out there that come with the new ubolts that will be needed, probably ~$150 for that kit. Should net you the 3/4" you are looking for. Next option would be air bags, which could net you a bit of lift if you run them a bit over 5psi, but that could make the ride a bit stiffer, and those kits are $400-$500. However, you get the added benefit of the bags when you need for towing/hauling.
 
Settling of springs is not unheard of, I just havent heard of it on F150s much. A gas charged shock could raise the rear a bit, so that is also a possible scenario, but I dont think there is a shock you could buy to guarantee you get some lift in the rear.

Cheapest/easiest way to raise the rear will be with a taller block. There are some 3" blocks out there that come with the new ubolts that will be needed, probably ~$150 for that kit. Should net you the 3/4" you are looking for. Next option would be air bags, which could net you a bit of lift if you run them a bit over 5psi, but that could make the ride a bit stiffer, and those kits are $400-$500. However, you get the added benefit of the bags when you need for towing/hauling.
Would the taller block change the ride or have any negative impacts?
 
Would the taller block change the ride or have any negative impacts?
If your budget allows, I would check out Deaver Spring and go with different springs or perhaps an airbag set-up. Going with a taller block will increase the potential of axle wrap.
 
If your budget allows, I would check out Deaver Spring and go with different springs or perhaps an airbag set-up. Going with a taller block will increase the potential of axle wrap.
I certainly don’t want any problems, but I’ve already got more money wrapped up in a half ton truck than I ever dreamed I would. I appreciate the suggestions for sure.
 

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