2021 F150 Tremor Stock Wheel & Tires

[Yeti]

I'm still so conflicted on my next move. I don't tow but you never know what the future holds. I really want a winch. The Power wagon is a cheaper option but it comes with a factory winch. IMO the Raptor and the Tremor look better than the power wagon. The Power wagon is much larger to drive around as a daily driver. The tremor with the 3:73's would be best choice on fuel. I would think when things settle down I could get more off the sticker with the Tremor too than the Raptor. I guess all in all its a good problem to have deciding.

You definitely get comfortable fast with the PW but the hood will always be there. the front camera is a work around for lack of visibility. Expect the PW to be 1300# payload without and 1100# with the sun roof. the Fords will drive nicer with IFS and be a bit more nimble stock for stock.

Adding a winch to a Ford will be $1300+ for an intercooler and relocation, then at least another $1000 for a winch and winch mount. for trails and especially rocky navigation, you can't beat the PW. for daily driving, overall comfort and use as a truck, I would and am going with the Ford.

 

[RotorHead695]

With Ram having gone to coils over a decade ago and Toyota going there now I can't see Ford's justification for staying in leaf set up. With the Raptor going there they obviously have some RD into it. It's not if but when in my mind.

I've seen that the Tremor has 1" more travel in front and 1.5" more in rear but not seen how much higher it sits. I've only found that fitting 35s on a non Raptor F150 requires a minimum 4" lift or a saw. I'd love to have 35s and the concept of 33s as tow tires and 35s for play is fantastic. It sounds like Yeti will bestow the information and knowledge and I'll just follow along.

You only need a 2" lift for the front to fit 35s on a 2021 F150 based on the research Yeti and I have been doing. The biggest question is what is the right path to accomplish that without creating any issues and without compromising the performance out of the "tuned" shocks.

 

[Yeti]

Thanks to POHO, we know the wheels are 18x7.5 ET34

 

[P0H0]

Few questions:

1. What is the factory rake on the F150 Tremor, F150 Raptor, and F150 — if you know post it, otherwise I will measure the Tremor when I get home.

2. What is the ideal rake (I know this will vary, but give me an idea of what you like)? I am thinking 1” rake would look nice.

3. How much reduction in towing capacity is there going from 33’s to 35’s?

4. Some suspensions are adjustable — the dealership seemed to indicate FOX is. Is the Tremor adjustable out of the box?

5. Is anything being lost going from the stock Tremor suspension to FOX?

6. Who the heck makes the Tremor stock suspension (Returned Springs + Shock) — is it FOX?

The F-150 Tremor features retuned springs, which give the truck a small amount of lift. Monotube dampers are found on the front of Tremor, while the rear utilizes twin-tube dampers. Suspension travel is increased by 1.5 inches in the rear and by 1 inch in the front over a standard F-150 (which puts it at roughly 9 inches of wheel travel).

 

[RotorHead695]

Few questions:

1. What is the factory rake on the F150 Tremor, F150 Raptor, and F150 — if you know post it, otherwise I will measure the Tremor when I get home.

2. What is the ideal rake (I know this will vary, but give me an idea of what you like)? I am thinking 1” rake would look nice.

3. How much reduction in towing capacity is there going from 33’s to 35’s?

4. Some suspensions are adjustable — the dealership seemed to indicate FOX is. Is the Tremor adjustable out of the box?

5. Is anything being lost going from the stock Tremor suspension to FOX?

6. Who the heck makes the Tremor stock suspension (Returned Springs + Shock) — is it FOX?

Those are exactly the questions I would like answered. Ideally after leveling and my gear in the bed, I would like to see a slight rake for when a trailer is attached. Those questions about the shocks will determine the route for the leveling.

 

[deucedevil]

Has anyone ever used airbags to manage the sag in a truck under trailer load?

 

[RotorHead695]

Has anyone ever used airbags to manage the sag in a truck under trailer load?

I know some of the Raptor guys do it. You should do some searching at: https://www.fordraptorforum.com/

 

[RotorHead695]

@Yeti - You seem to have quite a bit more knowledge than I do when it comes to suspension and tire setup. What are your thoughts about this:

 

[deucedevil]

I'm not technical in this aspect so very thankful there are some on this thread who are.

I think we all bought the Tremor for the balance between off road and utility (versus F150 FX4 or Raptor). Maxing out clearance/travel without losing towing and increasing sag is the goal for me. It sounds like that is similar to some other here.

 

[P0H0]

@Yeti - You seem to have quite a bit more knowledge than I do when it comes to suspension and tire setup. What are your thoughts about this:

View attachment 81

Are these drawings for a standard F150? The reason I ask is, I understand the Tremor has 1” wider in stance due to the tires — isn’t the tires even with the fender? Will the 35” tires extend past the fender by about 1”?

Really don’t want to add fender flares.

 

[Yeti]

@Yeti - You seem to have quite a bit more knowledge than I do when it comes to suspension and tire setup. What are your thoughts about this:

View attachment 81

A 315 is generically 12.4" wide. we'll have to measure once we have trucks but to do a 35x12.5 you will need at least a 2" lift.
my concern would be a 9.5" rim with 12 offset. on one hand you have a 2" wider rim and you are pushing the rim outward 3/4" with an ET12 (12mm vs ET34@ 34mm) so the rim may work on its own but with that wide of a rim, the tire cross section is a little different (sometimes wider) which could interfere with the upper strut.
With what you're showing above, the 2 inch lift on the right image should give enough fender clearance (if you have the right measurements) to tuck the wheel up (wheel travel)

My concern (because I'm a knucklehead) is it looks like that will be about 1" positive scrub radius (centerline of the wheel and the thing horizontal steering geometry is based off). the further out a wheel is from its intended scrub radius, the more stress it puts on the components (leverage). add to that the added weight of the new tire and wheel (~40#) and you start getting a mall crawler. So, 1" additional +scrub isn't terrible but it's there. Think about the cats who push their wheels way out with a -50 ET and 12" rims, that is unusable for someone wanting a reliable truck for light to medium or harder trails.

 

[Yeti]

Are these drawings for a standard F150? The reason I ask is, I understand the Tremor is 1” wider in stance, — I assume this means the back to back measurement between the tires — isn’t the tires even with the fender? 35” tires should extend past the fender about 1”?

Really don’t want to add fender flares.

View attachment 82

I hadn't noticed that bumpout flair. I dig it.

 

[P0H0]

I really don’t want fender flares — so I am sliding back towards a level and keeping the 33’s.

 

[Yeti]

I really don’t want fender flares — so I am sliding back towards a level and keeping the 33’s.

Fender flares are only to keep mud off. I've no desire to add them either. 35s are only diameter. what we're working on here is to try to identify what size wheel and tire can be done within the wheel well. so the width of the tire is one thing then the position of that wheel (offset - like 34ET means the connection to the wheel based on the center line of the wheel. 34 here means 34 mm) in the wheel well.

 

[RotorHead695]

A 315 is generically 12.4" wide. we'll have to measure once we have trucks but to do a 35x12.5 you will need at least a 2" lift.
my concern would be a 9.5" rim with 12 offset. on one hand you have a 2" wider rim and you are pushing the rim outward 3/4" with an ET12 (12mm vs ET34@ 34mm) so the rim may work on its own but with that wide of a rim, the tire cross section is a little different (sometimes wider) which could interfere with the upper strut.
With what you're showing above, the 2 inch lift on the right image should give enough fender clearance (if you have the right measurements) to tuck the wheel up (wheel travel)

My concern (because I'm a knucklehead) is it looks like that will be about 1" positive scrub radius (centerline of the wheel and the thing horizontal steering geometry is based off). the further out a wheel is from its intended scrub radius, the more stress it puts on the components (leverage). add to that the added weight of the new tire and wheel (~40#) and you start getting a mall crawler. So, 1" additional +scrub isn't terrible but it's there. Think about the cats who push their wheels way out with a -50 ET and 12" rims, that is unusable for someone wanting a reliable truck for light to medium or harder trails.

I do plan on bringing the front up 2". I researched scrub a bit after you mentioned it, but pretty much any tire choice other than factory size moves it one direction of another. It's the same scrub amount I'm currently running on my Raptor and it hasn't been an issue so far. I would say most of my trails are in the medium category.

I also made an error and the wheel I'm looking at is 17x9, not 17x9.5. I have calculated my wheel and tire weight to be 85 lbs so roughly 10 lbs over stock (obviously estimated).

The calculator is saying I would even have more clearance from the suspension than stock, so I think I'm just down to wheel tuck.

 

[RotorHead695]

I really don’t want fender flares — so I am sliding back towards a level and keeping the 33’s.

285/75R18 could be a good option too. It is 1" higher than the stock, but 1" narrow than 35s.

It's just less of a consideration for me because I really want to run 17s and D rated tires.

 

[RotorHead695]

Are these drawings for a standard F150? The reason I ask is, I understand the Tremor has 1” wider in stance due to the tires — isn’t the tires even with the fender? Will the 35” tires extend past the fender by about 1”?

Really don’t want to add fender flares.

Take a picture directly down the side of the truck looking front to back and you will find that the tires are tucked in more than you might think.

 

[Yeti]

285/75R18 could be a good option too. It is 1" higher than the stock, but 1" narrow than 35s.

It's just less of a consideration for me because I really want to run 17s and D rated tires.

yup. I also think Nitto has 35"X11 or 11.5" trail grapplers

 

[Yeti]

Take a picture directly down the side of the truck looking front to back and you will find that the tires are tucked in more than you might think.

I do plan on bringing the front up 2". I researched scrub a bit after you mentioned it, but pretty much any tire choice other than factory size moves it one direction of another. It's the same scrub amount I'm currently running on my Raptor and it hasn't been an issue so far. I would say most of my trails are in the medium category.

I also made an error and the wheel I'm looking at is 17x9, not 17x9.5. I have calculated my wheel and tire weight to be 85 lbs so roughly 10 lbs over stock (obviously estimated).

The calculator is saying I would even have more clearance from the suspension than stock, so I think I'm just down to wheel tuck.

scrub will be per truck. did you change your raptor offset/wheels? all of those numbers to the left side will need to be correct to have everything accurate but an example of ways to mitigate scrub (if it matters):

you go from a 7.5" to a 8 inch rim and change your offset from 34 to 28.
i.e. 8-7.5/2=.25 6mm is roughly 1/4" that you've pushed the wheel mount point outward. = 0 scrub radius difference.

but.. the wider rim you go the more positive scrub radius you will need because eventually you run out of room on the inside of the wheel well/suspension clearance. so a 9" rim would be -19mm (ET15) difference for 0 scrub but that 3/4" width on the inside my start rubbing on suspension so you would need to start pushing out further to maybe a ET0 which ends up being about 9/16" scrub (no bad).

now to really melt your brain, as you push the tire further out with negative offset (from OEM) that tire gets close to the edge of the wheel well. you add height to that and a bump could mean spinning tire hitting fender or wheel well. now you need lift for that part and to be able to let your tire tuck up in the fender (control arm radius)

All catastrophes aside, that's why we want to find that perfect balance. Hopefully I'll have all those measurements, tomorrow and we can know for sure Monday, when I get home.

Damn, in my youth I used to be so concise.....

 

[RotorHead695]

scrub will be per truck. did you change your raptor offset/wheels? all of those numbers to the left side will need to be correct to have everything accurate but an example of ways to mitigate scrub (if it matters):

Yes, I put everything in correctly and yes, I'm not running the stock Raptor wheels. The factory Tremor and Raptor wheels just happen to have the same offset.

All of that info makes sense.

I'm eagerly awaiting your results...haha.