New ICON F150 3inch Suspension

[Escape Hatch]

They do sit on the frame at full droop with shock installed. Its actually is a problem for the headlight leveling ball. You have to take the ball off the OEM uca and put it on the bracket on the icon uca. But at full droop you can’t get it on. If you install it not at full droop but then go to full droop, I suspect it will break the ball joint off. So I haven’t installed it yet. My headlights are aimed at the sky due to it.

I did t necessarily decide against the orange as much as I decided against more $$$ and time.

Have you reached out to Icon on the headlight bracket issue?

 

[SpaceWhiteF150]

They do sit on the frame at full droop with shock installed. Its actually is a problem for the headlight leveling ball. You have to take the ball off the OEM uca and put it on the bracket on the icon uca. But at full droop you can’t get it on. If you install it not at full droop but then go to full droop, I suspect it will break the ball joint off. So I haven’t installed it yet. My headlights are aimed at the sky due to it.

I did t necessarily decide against the orange as much as I decided against more $$$ and time.

Looks badass, let us know about the ride once you have some time to test it out!

 

[Yeti]

Have you reached out to Icon on the headlight bracket issue?

Depending on the answer below, I suspect a redo of the bracket is needed that will push the arc further out along with another qd ball and arm. I had to do something similar to my Rebel. Ended up designing/printing new arms at the right length/offset.

They do sit on the frame at full droop with shock installed. Its actually is a problem for the headlight leveling ball. You have to take the ball off the OEM uca and put it on the bracket on the icon uca. But at full droop you can’t get it on. If you install it not at full droop but then go to full droop, I suspect it will break the ball joint off. So I haven’t installed it yet. My headlights are aimed at the sky due to it.

It's still bad after the frame side bracket relocation/tweak?

 

[Cblaxx19]

Depending on the answer below, I suspect a redo of the bracket is needed that will push the arc further out along with another qd ball and arm. I had to do something similar to my Rebel. Ended up designing/printing new arms at the right length/offset.

It's still bad after the frame side bracket relocation/tweak?

All the relocation does is lower the sensor assy .75”. The issue is that the ball ends up too close to the frame mount of the uca. At least it seemed that way when I went to install the ball. But I’m not the first to install these ucas and shocks and I haven’t seen this issue mentioned before so it may just be me.

 

[MacHugh]

If you install it not at full droop but then go to full droop, I suspect it will break the ball joint off. So I haven’t installed it yet.

Or... there's your limit strap right there, 2 birds!

 

[Escape Hatch]

Looks badass, let us know about the ride once you have some time to test it out!

Something else for @Cblaxx19 to design, build, then sell to the group here. When can we expect the first prototype Cblaxx?

 

[Cblaxx19]

So after looking at some other installs, my bracket looks different and places the ball closer to the car… I’m trying to find my packaging to confirm the part number I received.

Other issue is I just got back from getting an alignment and my tires rub the uca at full lock…

This may be the part where icon doesn’t recommend the factory wheels…My tires are 285/75r18 recon grapplers

 

[South Florida Farmer]

Time for new wheels and tires

 

[Cblaxx19]

Time for new wheels and tires

Tires are brand new. I like the OEM wheels.

If I have to, I’ll slap a 1/2” wheel spacer on. And I know a lot of folks are super anti wheel spacers on here, but I it’s significantly cheaper than new wheels and I’m not too worried about the extra load on the axles. I’m not doing grand core wheeling, at least not anytime soon.

 

[South Florida Farmer]

Tires are brand new. I like the OEM wheels.

If I have to, I’ll slap a 1/2” wheel spacer on. And I know a lot of folks are super anti wheel spacers on here, but I it’s significantly cheaper than new wheels and I’m not too worried about the extra load on the axles. I’m not doing grand core wheeling, at least not anytime soon.

I like the OEM wheels as well. I am not a big fan of the generals but will run them till the need to be replaced.

 

[FaKtor34]

Tires are brand new. I like the OEM wheels.

If I have to, I’ll slap a 1/2” wheel spacer on. And I know a lot of folks are super anti wheel spacers on here, but I it’s significantly cheaper than new wheels and I’m not too worried about the extra load on the axles. I’m not doing grand core wheeling, at least not anytime soon.

1/2" doesn't make that much stress it's when they get past 1" that creates issues, I even believe wheels designed to push out past 1" cause the same stress, because regardless whether wheel or spacer you are pushing the tire out further which puts more side leverage. I think you'd be perfectly fine with that setup.

 

[SpaceWhiteF150]

Tires are brand new. I like the OEM wheels.

If I have to, I’ll slap a 1/2” wheel spacer on. And I know a lot of folks are super anti wheel spacers on here, but I it’s significantly cheaper than new wheels and I’m not too worried about the extra load on the axles. I’m not doing grand core wheeling, at least not anytime soon.

Rough country makes a 1/4in spacer, that would be perfect!

 

[TXArchitect]

Tires are brand new. I like the OEM wheels.

If I have to, I’ll slap a 1/2” wheel spacer on. And I know a lot of folks are super anti wheel spacers on here, but I it’s significantly cheaper than new wheels and I’m not too worried about the extra load on the axles. I’m not doing grand core wheeling, at least not anytime soon.

So just to reiterate.. your running stock rims / tires and rubbing on the aluminum UCA? Wonder if this is an issue with the tubular ICON UCA.. that's the boat I will soon be in (awaiting to sell my R.C. kit.. to install my new ICON kit)

 

[Cblaxx19]

So just to reiterate.. your running stock rims / tires and rubbing on the aluminum UCA? Wonder if this is an issue with the tubular ICON UCA.. that's the boat I will soon be in (awaiting to sell my R.C. kit.. to install my new ICON kit)

no, i am running stock rims but larger tires(285/75r18) with the billet UCA and they rub at full lock. if i was on stock tires, i don't believe i would have any rubbing.

 

[Cblaxx19]

little bit of an update...

i spoke with Icon relative to both of my issues. they suggest utilizing the adjustment of the UCA and push them out a bit to try and clear my tires. this would also effectively push the headlight ball joint away from the frame as well and possibly give the needed clearance to avoid snapping the ball off at droop.

i'm gonna take the truck back to the alignment guy and have them make the adjustment and then realign, hopefully this fixes both concerns.

 

[Yeti]

So after looking at some other installs, my bracket looks different and places the ball closer to the car… I’m trying to find my packaging to confirm the part number I received.

Other issue is I just got back from getting an alignment and my tires rub the uca at full lock…

This may be the part where icon doesn’t recommend the factory wheels…My tires are 285/75r18 recon grapplers

I really like our rims (which is why I have a road set on them) but they are really soft metal so I wouldn't do much in rocks, anyway. That tire/size is the best all around for our trucks (imo). If you're not wheeling hard, a 1/2" spacer won't give you a lot of grief (or likely any at all even if you were). I see Icon said to push the adjustment further out. That makes sense and with that skinny tire, that should work well. I hope it fixes the headlight bracket stress, too.

 

[Yeti]

I like the OEM wheels as well. I am not a big fan of the generals but will run them till the need to be replaced.

I'm impressed with the Generals from a traction standpoint. I've made origami with tougher sidewalls than our OE SL rated tires, though

 

[Cblaxx19]

so a little bit of an update:
i went ahead and drilled a new hole in the headlight sensor bracket to move the ball joint out away from the frame mount.

i also played with the extending the rod ends to push the top of the tire out. with the UCAs on the truck, its really hard to measure accurately to the center of the eye rod like they say, so i kept it conservative to not go beyond the limit the prescribe. i got a to where i had clearance while parked but would still rub once moving.

i took it to get realigned and asked them to bias my camber to the positive side of the spec, which they did, but only just barely. ill likely take it back and ask for a little more positive camber(but still in spec) and i think ill get the clearance i need.

what is confusing me is i just found a guy on one of the facebook groups with the billet ucas and stock wheels but 35x12.5 tires and he claims he only just barely rubs at full lock. but my tires are an inch skinnier, so you'd think id have plenty of clearance.

 

[Cranbery]

so a little bit of an update:
i went ahead and drilled a new hole in the headlight sensor bracket to move the ball joint out away from the frame mount.

i also played with the extending the rod ends to push the top of the tire out. with the UCAs on the truck, its really hard to measure accurately to the center of the eye rod like they say, so i kept it conservative to not go beyond the limit the prescribe. i got a to where i had clearance while parked but would still rub once moving.

i took it to get realigned and asked them to bias my camber to the positive side of the spec, which they did, but only just barely. ill likely take it back and ask for a little more positive camber(but still in spec) and i think ill get the clearance i need.

what is confusing me is i just found a guy on one of the facebook groups with the billet ucas and stock wheels but 35x12.5 tires and he claims he only just barely rubs at full lock. but my tires are an inch skinnier, so you'd think id have plenty of clearance.

Ive found people on the Internet have no idea what rubbing means and they'll be like "yeah I'm on true 35s with a two inch level, zero rub" but then as soon as they're in reverse, turning, or at articulation, it rubs like wild. "Oh I meant when I'm going straight on the highway it doesn't rub" or they leave out that they cut out half their crash bar and wheel liner.

 

[FaKtor34]

so a little bit of an update:
i went ahead and drilled a new hole in the headlight sensor bracket to move the ball joint out away from the frame mount.

i also played with the extending the rod ends to push the top of the tire out. with the UCAs on the truck, its really hard to measure accurately to the center of the eye rod like they say, so i kept it conservative to not go beyond the limit the prescribe. i got a to where i had clearance while parked but would still rub once moving.

i took it to get realigned and asked them to bias my camber to the positive side of the spec, which they did, but only just barely. ill likely take it back and ask for a little more positive camber(but still in spec) and i think ill get the clearance i need.

what is confusing me is i just found a guy on one of the facebook groups with the billet ucas and stock wheels but 35x12.5 tires and he claims he only just barely rubs at full lock. but my tires are an inch skinnier, so you'd think id have plenty of clearance.

To piggy back what @Cranbery said when they say 35/12:50 it also depends on tire brand, the BFG KO2 35/12:50 is literally almost the same size as my Falken Wildpeak At3w that I am running on stock suspension. So just because they state the size doesn't mean it's legit.