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🛠️ What have you done to your F150 Tremor this week?

SpaceWhiteF150 said:
3 switches used: 1 for yellow, 1 for white, 1 for backlight.

Mount: https://axismounts.com/products/f-s...mount-f-150-and-raptor?variant=50987863277881

Harness: https://cblightingdesigns.myshopify...or-2021-f150-lower-bumper-diode-dynamics-pods So this harness works also with the
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SpaceWhiteF150 said:
3 switches used: 1 for yellow, 1 for white, 1 for backlight.

Mount: https://axismounts.com/products/f-s...mount-f-150-and-raptor?variant=50987863277881

Harness: https://cblightingdesigns.myshopify...or-2021-f150-lower-bumper-diode-dynamics-pods
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So the harness works also with the Baja Designs squadron 2.0 pro? Even though it says diode dynamics? Just making sure. Thx!
 
I bought my '26 402b a couple weeks ago, so I haven't started on the big mods. But today I put the tufskinz f150 on. I like the inverted Tremor colors to change things up a little.
 

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Katzkins installed. I think these came out great. Material is high quality and stitching is top notch. With their customization process, I was able to get black centers, and two shades of grey for the panels. If you are on the fence about these, don't be.

Next step...not too sure. I've done my audio so it's better than stock but I'm getting the bug for an amp replacement.

IMG_2414.webp

IMG_2416.webp
 
money4nuttn said:
What audio upgrade did you do? I'm wanting to do mine.
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JL Audio C1 is what I used. The fronts come with a metal tweeter, so I would either keep the OEM fabric domes, or get silks (which is what I did) for less "brightness". Most components with high sensitivity (92-94) will work without amps. Crutchfield's "will it fit" is wrong for F150-F350 and 4ohm is what you need. I also replaced the B&O sub with a Kicker Hideaway 10" which give a "better than stock" but not full sub upgrade. I've done a bunch of these and also done higher-end installs in F-series but this (JLA C1s) is a basic, almost drop in, upgrade that works for most that don't want to spend $$$ for DSP and amps. It's kind of the cut-off before spending $$$ for a complete build.
 
34SF said:
JL Audio C1 is what I used. The fronts come with a metal tweeter, so I would either keep the OEM fabric domes, or get silks (which is what I did) for less "brightness". Most components with high sensitivity (92-94) will work without amps. Crutchfield's "will it fit" is wrong for F150-F350 and 4ohm is what you need. I also replaced the B&O sub with a Kicker Hideaway 10" which give a "better than stock" but not full sub upgrade. I've done a bunch of these and also done higher-end installs in F-series but this (JLA C1s) is a basic, almost drop in, upgrade that works for most that don't want to spend $$$ for DSP and amps. It's kind of the cut-off before spending $$$ for a complete build.
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Do you have any pics of where you put that sub? I guess you had to disconnect the B&O sub? And for sure I hate bright sounding speakers it's like fingernails on a chalkboard to me. I have a pair of MB Quart RCE 268 Components that I want to put in the front doors that are sure to sound better than the B&O.
 
money4nuttn said:
Do you have any pics of where you put that sub? I guess you had to disconnect the B&O sub? And for sure I hate bright sounding speakers it's like fingernails on a chalkboard to me. I have a pair of MB Quart RCE 268 Components that I want to put in the front doors that are sure to sound better than the B&O.
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The MB Quarts would definitely sound better but they'll be woefully under-powered with the OEM amp with a sensitivity of 86db. The OEM speakers are designed to use the power produced by the B&O amp (around 25 watts or less per channel); it's pretty bleak.

To do the same with better speakers you'll need higher sensitivity.

This is my Kicker. In hindsight, I'd probably mount it with the adjustment knobs on top (it will fit both ways) so I don't have to squint to see what I'm doing. I've also done upgrades with a shallow Kicker sub and mini amp in the old style ported boxes which was also better than stock but not fantastic. The hideaway is cheaper but the box sounds a bit better.
IMG_2143.webp
 
New exhaust experiment. X-pipe, dual corsa PKM2000, dual corsa CP300SS. I tuned the startup to remove the spark retard and quiet the cold start down some. The driving sound is amazing. Maybe a little loud :).



 
34SF said:
Katzkins installed. I think these came out great. Material is high quality and stitching is top notch. With their customization process, I was able to get black centers, and two shades of grey for the panels. If you are on the fence about these, don't be.

Next step...not too sure. I've done my audio so it's better than stock but I'm getting the bug for an amp replacement.

View attachment 46570
View attachment 46571
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Looks great!
 
EnemyNSA said:
Looks good!

I am getting the inlay next week.. was it as easy to apply as it looks?
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Yes it was just clean the area with rubbing alcohol and just take your time with it :)
 
34SF said:
The MB Quarts would definitely sound better but they'll be woefully under-powered with the OEM amp with a sensitivity of 86db. The OEM speakers are designed to use the power produced by the B&O amp (around 25 watts or less per channel); it's pretty bleak.

To do the same with better speakers you'll need higher sensitivity.

This is my Kicker. In hindsight, I'd probably mount it with the adjustment knobs on top (it will fit both ways) so I don't have to squint to see what I'm doing. I've also done upgrades with a shallow Kicker sub and mini amp in the old style ported boxes which was also better than stock but not fantastic. The hideaway is cheaper but the box sounds a bit better.
View attachment 46576
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OK Thanks for the pic much appreciated. I plan on taking mine to a local install shop and have a chat about options.
Did you have to fill the whole where the B&O sub was?
 
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