What's new

🛠️ What have you done to your F150 Tremor this week?

Yeah I’m gonna check that, it’s possible I tore a seal/diaphragm trying to reinstall it, just trying to figure out how an IC install would kill a turbo.

Wondering if my tune has anything to do with it. Pretty sure I’m gonna get fucked on having warranty cover this 🥲

If it’s torn I’ll just end up replacing it with a turbo smart BOV.
I know it is a silly question but was there caps on the intercooler in/outlets and if so did you remove all of them prior to install?
 
I know it is a silly question but was there caps on the intercooler in/outlets and if so did you remove all of them prior to install?
Nope no caps, all pipes were clear of FOD as well.

Checked the oil dipstick--completely empty. Guess the turbo sucked it all out but idk--I had an oil change in September at the dealer, and curiously no engine oil light came on.
 
No oil?
That complicates things. Still can't see how the intercooler or the BOV could do that.
 
Is that 2amp even doing anything for you? I could not get the battery to charge using a 4amp Viking, someone on here said the truck needs over 5amp to offset the amount of daily discharge if you don’t drive long distances. I went with Noco10 and the meter actually goes all the way to full now.
Update:
Yes. The 2 amp does work. The secret is to remove the keys (OK, key fob) and let the truck go to sleep.
I put the battery monitor on yesterday and have been watching it with and without the charger.
Today I let the truck go "asleep", hooked up the 2a charger at 15:28hrs. By 18:04hrs it was fully charged.
It went to low because I was installing and playing with my new lights.

Having said that. Fordpass has given me the dreaded "shut down to save battery" message before. But it has always started. maybe I was worried about nothing?😉
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20231219_152852_Battery_Monitor[1].webp
    Screenshot_20231219_152852_Battery_Monitor[1].webp
    49.8 KB · Views: 81
  • Screenshot_20231219_174546_Battery_Monitor[1].webp
    Screenshot_20231219_174546_Battery_Monitor[1].webp
    49.4 KB · Views: 86
  • 20231219_171919-resized.webp
    20231219_171919-resized.webp
    254.3 KB · Views: 73
Last edited:
Nope no caps, all pipes were clear of FOD as well.

Checked the oil dipstick--completely empty. Guess the turbo sucked it all out but idk--I had an oil change in September at the dealer, and curiously no engine oil light came on.
Wonder if there was debris in the intercooler from manufacturing that entered the turbos. Can you access the turbo inlet and take a look to see if the compressor blades are chewed up at all? Also, are you going to drain any left over oil and check for shavings?
 
Last edited:
Wonder if there was debris in the intercooler from manufacturing that entered the turbos. Can you access the turbo inlet and take a look to see if the compressor blades are chewed up at all? Also, are you going to drain any left over oil and check for shavings?
I’ll see what I can see returning it to stock but I won’t dive into it until I see what Ford says. As much as I want to.
 
I’ll see what I can see returning it to stock but I won’t dive into it until I see what Ford says. As much as I want to.
When are you going to the dealership? Curious what they say.

I went to the dealership 2 weeks ago for a routine oil change. Car gets finished and I hop in to drive away. I gradually release the brake pedal and I hear a pop. Stop, put the car in park and go take a look out side. Did I run over something? Did a spring shift? Nope…

The tech that rotated my tires hand tightened all the lugs.

Tech came out to tighten the lugs and I had to stop him as common sense would dictate that tightening a lug on a wheel sitting at an angle would cause problems.

As the car was being driven back into the bay the wheel was wobbling in the most cartoonish of fashions. Can’t make this up.

Long story short I would not be surprised if they didn’t refill the oil.
 
Update: The NOCO has successfully charged the battery up.
Steady, green light = 100%. (y)

I found this while lurking on the 14th Gen F-150 site. I will be monitoring it with this:
View attachment 24994
I have that monitor for monitoring a lith batt on my fishing kayak but where in the magical hell did you find it for that price 😳
 
Update:
Yes. The 2 amp does work. The secret is to remove the keys (OK, key fob) and let the truck go to sleep.
I put the battery monitor on yesterday and have been watching it with and without the charger.
Today I let the truck go "asleep", hooked up the 2a charger at 15:28hrs. By 18:04hrs it was fully charged.
It went to low because I was installing and playing with my new lights.

Having said that. Fordpass has given me the dreaded "shut down to save battery" message before. But it has always started. maybe I was worried about nothing?😉
Be aware that monitor has a parasitic drain on it aswell.
 
I have that monitor for monitoring a lith batt on my fishing kayak but where in the magical hell did you find it for that price 😳
Amazon.Mx
About $35.00 US(The price is in Pesos);)
 
Last edited:
Today I added the front off-road lights. For those curious, they’re Nilight, from Amazon not sponsored). I know, they’re not the nice fancy stuff but they’ve actually worked pretty well for the price. I’ve been running them on my Yukon for over a year without issue this far. They came as a kit with one large main light (24 leds) and two pods (6 leds each) with brackets and wiring harness, relay and switches, for $40-ish.

Budget lights but better than nothing.
Machine
 
Today I added the front off-road lights. For those curious, they’re Nilight, from Amazon (not sponsored). I know, they’re not the nice fancy stuff but they’ve actually worked pretty well for the price. I’ve been running them on my Yukon for over a year without issue this far. They came as a kit with one main light (24 leds) and two pods (6 leds each) with brackets and wiring harness, relay and switches, for $40-ish.
Buuut finally got them on. I’ll detail this on my build page.

Machine
 
Today I added the front off-road lights. For those curious, they’re Nilight, from Amazon (not sponsored). I know, they’re not the nice fancy stuff but they’ve actually worked pretty well for the price. I’ve been running them on my Yukon for over a year without issue this far. They came as a kit with one main light (24 leds) and two pods (6 leds each) with brackets and wiring harness, relay and switches, for $40-ish.
Buuut finally got them on. I’ll detail this on my build page.

Machine
Machine, absent pictures it doesn’t exist. 😉
 
Back
Top