Cranbery's Build - "Homelander"

Finally made a few hours to put a dent in my parts backlog (are you a real car guy if you don't have a parts backlog??)!

I was really unimpressed with the roush intake - I don't recommend it to anyone looking for a CAI. It was not very airtight at the air scoop connection, the threads stripped on a few of the screw connections, and overall it felt cheap. Replaced it with the AFE rapid induction and the AFE scoop, which tie together really nice and tight. The higher price point shows in the quality of the parts from AFE. Sounds better, and noticably more responsive.

A few weeks back I did the AFE charge pipes, added some nice response on the throttle. They were not hard to install, but VERY tedious. You need to go in from all crazy angles and some screws are really hard to get to. I had a boost leak and I spent hours trying to find it and couldn't. I had to take it to someone to test it with the smoke machine (which he mentioned he's never had to use in ten years, that's how hard it was to find lmao). I live not too far from MAK performance so I've been going to them for any needs - really solid and specialists in Ford v8s and Ecoboost.

I also did the Cobb underwood accessories which look and feel great, nice touch. I added a VAS front differential brace to get some of the wheel hop down - pictures not shown because it's hard to get one down there but easy install. It actually did help with the wheel hop.

I have in my truck bed for hopefully next weekend:

- BDS traction bars
- banks digital gauge
- UPR dual catch can (should've installed this a long time ago tbh)

Probably going to pick up the new BBK throttle body next month, and I've been waiting for the borla exhaust to drop. Stay tuned!
 

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Reached out to livernois about the if the tune should be adjusted after adding full bolt ons and this was their response.

Basically as much air as you can get into the motor, the MAP sensor will report and the ECU will give it more fuel to account for the extra air.

More air and more fuel = more go fast

I might ask MAK performance about a true flash of the ECU when I go Dyno it to see if they can dial it in more, versus an out of the box OBD tune like the livernois.
 

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It looks like the upstream oxygen sensors are wideband, and have been since at least the previous gen? That probably helps with the adaptation.
 
Alright girls, finally got the exhaust installed!

I had a shop do it just because I don't have time, but it's not a hard install. So you can do it yourself if you want to save some money.

I think it sounds and looks great. It's not a V8, but I appreciate the sound of all motors and I like the sound of a turbo 6 so I enjoy it. It sounds great under full throttle.

Installed the recoil traction bars - again easy install. Just bolt on. Hardest part is dialing it in because you can adjust it. It completely took away my wheel hop. If you rock crawl, this traction bar sits kind of low so I'd recommend something else.

Did the UPR dual catch can, very easy install. I should have had it a long time ago but better late than never. These guys basically invented the catch can, suggest them if you get one!

Organized my truck bed and rear seats - setup is looking and FUNCTIONING great.

Next up on the list:

- SPD downpipes should be dropping in a few weeks.
- Deep aluminum tranny pan (going to service it so I'm going to get the deeper pan while I'm at it - I've read a 35k service is worth it on the 10r80 and when I asked the shop about it he showed me a bottle of oil from one he just did at 40k and it was black - have heard from multiple sources to not wait past 40k to do a new filter, fluid, and gasket). Having the shop do this because it is a little more involved and takes more time.
- Going to drain the factory fluids in my front and rear differential and replace it because I just don't have high hopes for it given the tranny fluid issue and the low QAQC in the market right noww. Swapping the covers while I'm at it, I like the AFE covers. The rear is really easy, the front is not unless you have like a 6" lift.
- Throttle body, BBK just dropped one.

Still waiting for a fox or icon tremor specific suspension. Looking at the RPG tie rods when I do the new suspension also. The RC fronts aren't bad, but leave something to be desired. I don't want to pay for vertex ones that aren't rebuildable. I do like my vertex rears, but I'd get a full package from Fox or icon and sell these.

When I have to service my breaks I'm going to go with the powerstop set with slotted rotors.

More to come!
 

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How much of a pain in the ass was the drivers side tubing for the catch can?
 
How much of a pain in the ass was the drivers side tubing for the catch can?
Not bad. You need a special clip to remove the OEM but they are $10 at the auto part.
 
Glad the Recoils worked for you. It’s crazy how loose and soft the rear is without them.
 
Glad the Recoils worked for you. It’s crazy how loose and soft the rear is without them.
Yes! I'm glad I returned the VAS set. Thanks for putting me on the recoils, the guys at the shop doing my exhaust loved them too. I have them on the first setting right now, going to bump them up one. What do you have them on?
 
Yes! I'm glad I returned the VAS set. Thanks for putting me on the recoils, the guys at the shop doing my exhaust loved them too. I have them on the first setting right now, going to bump them up one. What do you have them on?
I have mine on the softest setting, I don’t plan on power launches with the 37’s. I probably should mess with them, but the truck feels so dialed right now.
 
Wanted to share what I've added so far... my girlfriend named the truck Homelander, I figured it was fitting. '22 oxford white 402A, every option (Granger ftw).

Had to use IMGUR because my S22 Ultra takes some omega high def pictures and they apparently are too large for the forum. This is the whole album:


Future plans not yet added:

- Leveling kit (preferably coilovers), waiting for a Tremor kit, or one of the forum guinea pigs to confirm a good working kit
- Method 305's, powdercoated in orange to match the exterior trims, with black beadlock screws (comparing powdercoat swatches now from prismaticpowders.com)
- 35"s, some A/T or R/T, thinking toyos or baja boss
- Sound system adjustment, likely a bigger amp and sub - the "premium" system is pretty lackluster imo, probably the biggest dissappointment in the truck.
- Already ordered pedal covers, waiting on them to arrive
- Have the glove light, phone light, cup holder light, and center console light (this one is from f150 leds) as well as the harnesses from the guy on F150gen14 ready to go, just waiting on the cupholder light ring to come in so I can take apart the dash once... it's on backorder nationwide. Place I ordered from said 4-5 weeks at least.
- Heavily leaning towards the amp power steps

This post has my kit that is organized throughout my truck:

Awesome setup cant wait to see it in person. I have looked at most of the bed setup items before and haven't seem them until now in good pictures on a truck. Thanks
 
If anyone is curious what the service ticket description was for the transmission fix - basically it was all fked up. TSB 23-2250.

There's also a windshield wiper recall out.
 

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Got the ignition button painted and on. I need a new lettering stamp for it. My homelander sticker was too big for it so i put it on the windshield speaker cover, came out as a nice subtle touch I think.
What is that whole assembly up there for? I keep thinking that little thing to the left is a button and keep pressing it, lol
 
What is that whole assembly up there for? I keep thinking that little thing to the left is a button and keep pressing it, lol
Pretty sure it's the assembly for the Incab mic and speaker for calls, and whatever else related to the windshield electronics (auto wipe sensor and all that)
 
Pretty sure it's the assembly for the Incab mic and speaker for calls, and whatever else related to the windshield electronics (auto wipe sensor and all that)
1702936978920.png

Temp (the button) and humidity sensor (slots) on the left, CoPilot camera venting in the middle, and auto-wiper sensor on the right.

Mic is the little round grille on the headliner just to the right of Driver center, and calls come through the audio system.

If you have a sunroof the mic is off to the left

1702936471592.png
 
After a busy start to the year with work and parts taking forever to get here (~3 months for the icons), I have the following in the truck bed for install hopefully next week:

- Stage 4 cdcv icon front and rear coils with billet ucas and the leaf springs
- SPD downpipes
- K&N turbo inlet pipes

Stay tuned !
 
After a busy start to the year with work and parts taking forever to get here (~3 months for the icons), I have the following in the truck bed for install hopefully next week:

- Stage 4 cdcv icon front and rear coils with billet ucas and the leaf springs
- SPD downpipes
- K&N turbo inlet pipes

Stay tuned !
Awesome!
 
@Cranbery I looked through here but didn't see details on how you mounted the bulkhead rail in front of the retrax canister. Tell please! Thanks
 
@Cranbery I looked through here but didn't see details on how you mounted the bulkhead rail in front of the retrax canister. Tell please! Thanks
Pretty simple as long as you are good with a measuring tape and an angle grinder. The way it mounts normally is to the truck bed with the stock mounting holes. I simply measured the distance between my builtright panels, which is shorter than the intended mount, and cut the long bar. Then I mounted the ends to the builtright panels. I cut it too long twice before I got the right measurement, but that was on purpose mostly because if you cut it too short then you're fked...

Looking back I only have one Pic, in it the long bar is what I'm referring to that you need to cut. Literally just make it shorter and mount the builtright panels.
 

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