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🛠️ What have you done to your F150 Tremor this week?

TheWaterman said:
I had a good wrench that matched the flutes. I looked at the Fumotos when I had my Ram. They are definitely well made but the concept scares me a little.
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I agree.
Yes, they’re well designed and it’s a proven concept but, I just can’t pull myself to trust it compared to a regular drain bolt not to mention that it still drains slower and speaking for myself, I never make a mess when changing my oil.
I’m sure it has happened to some people but I wonder how many people have ran over some type of debris on or off the road and said debris ripped the bottom of the valve off or damaged it.
 
I did a little road trip this last weekend with my wife to do some mountain biking in northern california. Before I left I finished up my wolfbox g900 tripro install. The tripro allows me to fix 2 problems and a nice to have at once and in my own typical fashion (or at least according to my wife) I just had to do it the difficult way. I used a builtright dash mount, a handful of (knock off) ram mounts and arms to mount the g900 low on the dash. My camper shell has mediocre visibility out of the rear window, but still good enough for freeways. It falls short around town as people can get close enough to my truck where I can barely see them. I also wanted to be able to turn the display on the wolfbox off for night driving as to not mess with my night vision. Lastly, the 3rd and/or what is supposed to be the front view camera is mounted under the truck, more or less directly under the center console/shifter so that I can see what the front wheels are climbing up. This helps me when driving blue trail difficulty features and fire roads climbing onto rocks and through ruts and also helps me climb up onto leveling blocks in camping spots. Overall happy with the install so far.

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I also added a few led lights to my rough country camper shell. The standard/oem light provided by rough country wasn't quite bright enough for my crappy eyesight.
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Shaggydc said:
Retractable tonneau cover
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My truck came with the same one. I am having a hell of a time minimizing the leaking! water rolls to the side rails, but instead of channeling to the front it jus leaks into the bed. How is your water seal?
 
Hughmsmall said:
My truck came with the same one. I am having a hell of a time minimizing the leaking! water rolls to the side rails, but instead of channeling to the front it jus leaks into the bed. How is your water seal?
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They can be a real bear to get water tight... I had a retrax on my 15' and my 22' and it took me a while to get them as dry as I could. The problem spots are going to be the corners. In front, where the side rails meet the folder over for the front of the bed and obviously the tailgate in the rear.

To address the front, I got some adhesive backed, 1/4" thick foam seal/stripping from amazing and double layered it. I also put that same seal around the sides of the bed. I found that the seal/gasket material that's at pre-installed on the retrax where the side rails meet the bed caps is insufficient at providing a truly water tight seal.

Regarding the bed side, there wasn't really anything I could ever to do stop some small amount of water from getting in there. Best I could do was get it down to a shot glass or two in a heavy rain or saturation test. Again, adjusting the positioning of it and layering in aftermarket weather stripping got me close. They also like to leak a bit where the drain tubes meet the can/housing. Hitting those hard with silicone before you shove the grommets in helps.
 
ebsocalmtb said:
They can be a real bear to get water tight... I had a retrax on my 15' and my 22' and it took me a while to get them as dry as I could. The problem spots are going to be the corners. In front, where the side rails meet the folder over for the front of the bed and obviously the tailgate in the rear.

To address the front, I got some adhesive backed, 1/4" thick foam seal/stripping from amazing and double layered it. I also put that same seal around the sides of the bed. I found that the seal/gasket material that's at pre-installed on the retrax where the side rails meet the bed caps is insufficient at providing a truly water tight seal.

Regarding the bed side, there wasn't really anything I could ever to do stop some small amount of water from getting in there. Best I could do was get it down to a shot glass or two in a heavy rain or saturation test. Again, adjusting the positioning of it and layering in aftermarket weather stripping got me close. They also like to leak a bit where the drain tubes meet the can/housing. Hitting those hard with silicone before you shove the grommets in helps.
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I found the documentation for install. They say to tilt the rails at about 2 degrees to help water channel into the box then our through the hoses. I found it really hard to tilt. Had to crank the bottom of the aluminum brackets to push it up and out. Even with the tilt this is still what I am getting. the worst part it that the water then channels along the top and drips in the middle of the bed so there are really no dry spots.
 

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I honestly never bothered to tilt mine like that, fwiw, granted I also had a yakima overhaul hd rack installed so I really couldn't. I would honestly run them flat and double down on the sealing between the rail and your bed rail. If anything, you would want to tilt the rails slightly forward, towards the nose of the truck to push the water down to the tubes.
 
ebsocalmtb said:
I honestly never bothered to tilt mine like that, fwiw, granted I also had a yakima overhaul hd rack installed so I really couldn't. I would honestly run them flat and double down on the sealing between the rail and your bed rail. If anything, you would want to tilt the rails slightly forward, towards the nose of the truck to push the water down to the tubes.
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Cool! will give that a try.
 
CAMDENN said:
I agree.
Yes, they’re well designed and it’s a proven concept but, I just can’t pull myself to trust it compared to a regular drain bolt not to mention that it still drains slower and speaking for myself, I never make a mess when changing my oil.
I’m sure it has happened to some people but I wonder how many people have ran over some type of debris on or off the road and said debris ripped the bottom of the valve off or damaged it.
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That's exactly my fear. Run over a stick, or debris, valve flips open and boom...you're in trouble. They're nifty for sure but I can definitely see myself being one of the unlucky ones that has it accidentally open with the motor running.
 
I was
CAMDENN said:
I agree.
Yes, they’re well designed and it’s a proven concept but, I just can’t pull myself to trust it compared to a regular drain bolt not to mention that it still drains slower and speaking for myself, I never make a mess when changing my oil.
I’m sure it has happened to some people but I wonder how many people have ran over some type of debris on or off the road and said debris ripped the bottom of the valve off or damaged it.
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I was very leary at first. Especially considering that every second oil change is done by my dealer in order to maintain the warranty. (Dont ask, its a Mexican thing)
So far, so good. The droid at the dealership had actually seen and worked a Fumoto valve before.
 
Anything can happen... but as anecdotal evidence I had one installed on my mazda miata track car and went off track at 85mph with the oil pan only 4" off the ground and it was fine.
 
TheWaterman said:
That's exactly my fear. Run over a stick, or debris, valve flips open and boom...you're in trouble. They're nifty for sure but I can definitely see myself being one of the unlucky ones that has it accidentally open with the motor running.
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😂…..Yep, after making contact with some debris, oil slowly leaking and you won’t know it until the oil light comes on and then it might be too late.
This is definitely something that would happen to me.
I hope this never happens to anyone because that would really suck.
 
TheWaterman said:
That's exactly my fear. Run over a stick, or debris, valve flips open and boom...you're in trouble. They're nifty for sure but I can definitely see myself being one of the unlucky ones that has it accidentally open with the motor running.
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Seems like the Raptor skid plate protecting the tranny pan would help a lot. I guess a stick or debris could still get to it, but it seems very unlikely. I'm thinking of a ValvoMax drain plug but haven't done it yet.
 
She finally got her boob job done….LOL. Installed 1.5” Auto Spring spacers. The front was sitting at 38”…it is now 39 7/8. Just shy of 2”. Looks sooooo much better.

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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TwistedADV said:
Back bumper got kissed... I am not happy about it
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Got the estimate today. $3400... Not sure why A new Tremor sticker was needed in the estimate...it's literally just the bumper.. goes to the shop on the 19th for some surgery.
 
just a ninja said:
Just the right amount of front lift - looks great!

What brand/model are the bug shield and window vents you have and are you happy with em?
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Window rain guards work great! I’ve had them on all my vehicles. Bug shield is working great also. Didn’t know if I was going to like it…didn’t know if it was going to be too much “black” on the front. But, I think it looks pretty decent.

Here is where I go them:

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Rikracer said:
I have the same thing, getting rid of the chrome lugnuts was more important to me though, I am totally not concerned about them holding
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I tow and offroad frequently. So far so good. It's likely a non-issue.

Thanks!
 
CAMDENN said:
I watched their video on the installation in a F150.
It does look very cool.
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I had a Gatortrax retractable on a Chevy Colorado about 8 years ago and really liked the security of it, but hated that the canister ate up so much space. This really seems like the best of both worlds.
 
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