Halolifts Coilover - Group Buy Info in First Post!

I should add, and I hope I am wrong, but I suspect we will start to see worn CV boots on the guys running the 2.5". That's 3.5" over a "regular" F-150. That's alot of angle on the CVs.
You're not wrong plus some. Glad you finally got the rig dialed in.
 
If I was redoing everything now, I would go with the halolift kit, leave the block in for a 1-2" rake and get 285/75r18 tires on an ET 20-ET24 18x8.5 inch rim
Thank You!

I am new to my Tremor (just picked it up) but have spent TONS of time reading, searching, looking for solutions to determine how well my 18x9 +24 wheels would fit with a 285/75r18 and what I needed to do to achieve that with minimal / no cutting / rubbing. This single post is one of the most helpful on the topic because of your words on wheel sizing / offset. Thank YOU!

I want it all, on road manners, off road ability for occasional off road fun / park activities, and regular towing of a 7,000-8,000lb load

Looks like this Halo Lift kit, default height, Stock Rear Blocks, and RAS helper springs gets me everything I want. Levels it out some, but cuts the rake in 1/2 and makes sure I won't squat nearly as bad while towing.

I also talked to Kevin today and he was very helpful as well.
 
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I have my Halolifts set to the minimum lift height as well.

Just a question - do any of you have a knocking sound when hitting sharp bumps (pot holes, train tracks, etc) when the shocks are cold? Mine make a knocking sound when i first start driving and then it goes away after a few minutes of driving when i hit the same bumps.
 
I have my Halolifts set to the minimum lift height as well.

Just a question - do any of you have a knocking sound when hitting sharp bumps (pot holes, train tracks, etc) when the shocks are cold? Mine make a knocking sound when i first start driving and then it goes away after a few minutes of driving when i hit the same bumps.
No. That's not normal. Does it seems to be on one side or the other? I would ask Kevin about that.
 
I have my Halolifts set to the minimum lift height as well.

Just a question - do any of you have a knocking sound when hitting sharp bumps (pot holes, train tracks, etc) when the shocks are cold? Mine make a knocking sound when i first start driving and then it goes away after a few minutes of driving when i hit the same bumps.
I’ve got a knocking sound but it was there before the coilovers. Mine is prevalent on the smallest of bumps.
 
I have my Halolifts set to the minimum lift height as well.

Just a question - do any of you have a knocking sound when hitting sharp bumps (pot holes, train tracks, etc) when the shocks are cold? Mine make a knocking sound when i first start driving and then it goes away after a few minutes of driving when i hit the same bumps.
recheck/retorque your bolts/nuts just to make sure.
 
I’ve got a knocking sound but it was there before the coilovers. Mine is prevalent on the smallest of bumps.
Were you able to determine root-cause of noise in front suspension. I'm in the same boat.
 
Um, how many ugah-dugah should each bolt be?
2.23 second grunt but not so much your kid containers roll away.

I want to say somewhere in the 35 ftlb range for the top and 80ish at the bottom. With my last truck, I had one strut that wasn't fully seated up top. I happened to catch it one day and noticed a 1/8" gap. 30 seconds with a box end wrench fixed it.
 
Found this in another forum...

bear in mind the first spec is metric.
Torque Specifications Description Nm lb-ft
Wheel nuts 204 150

Front Suspension
Wheel hub-to-wheel knuckle bolts 200 148
Tie-rod end nut 150 111
Front axle-to-wheel hub nut (4x4) 27 20 25-30#****************************
Upper ball joint nut 115 85
Upper arm-to-frame nuts 150 111
Lower ball joint nut 150 111
Lower arm-to-frame bolt and nut 300 222
Shock absorber upper mounting
plate-to-frame nuts (M10) 48 35
Shock absorber-to-lower arm
bolt and nut (M20) 475 351 M12 bolt size 65 *************************
Stabilizer bar bracket-to-frame bolts 48 35
Stabilizer bar-to-link nut 133 98
Stabilizer bar-to-link to
lower control arm nut 90 66
Anti-lock brake sensor bolt 18 13
Caliper anchor plate-to-wheel
knuckle bolts 200 148
Caliper-to-anchor plate bolts 32 24
 
Were you able to determine root-cause of noise in front suspension. I'm in the same boat.
No - I’ve rechecked the strut bolts and upper control arms. All tight. Like I said before. It was there before Halolifts so I’m not sure what it could be. Didn’t have it or at least didn’t notice it on the ‘22 I had for a month.
 
A good shop or DYI'er will torque everything and mark it with a paint pen so it easy to see if it's came loose. Then on the 500 mile re-torque you will know I something wasn't seated or married properly because you will move the paint marks.
 
Looking at the below package. Based on video all the blocks are tapered but site just shows one Raptor Taper. Looking for about 1” rake. Any suggestions on set up with this package to achieve?

HaloLifts Boss Aluma Mountain Package​

 
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('tis the season)

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My package arrived today. I'll probably throw the rears on right away because it's so simple but the fronts will have to wait a couple weeks for life to settle down and allow a half day in the shop.

I'm super-impressed with the fit and finish and general high-quality feel of these components.

I'll be after what @Bannerman achieved on his - about 1.75"-2" of lift over stock. I'll be backing the collars off per his photos of his - leaving about 3-4 threads above the collar. We'll see where that gets me.
 

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@Bannerman, @halo.f150 , or anyone else that's adjusted the preload on these:
I am adjusting mine on the bench (to have about 4-5 threads showing above the collar). I've loosened the clamping screw on the collar, set the coilover in a fixture I have, and then turned the collar using the supplied spanner. I just want to make sure that:
a) its fine / expected that the spring and lower spring perch turn with the adjusting collar all together as one (seems fine, but want to make sure)
b) there's nothing else I need to adjust, torque, or otherwise manipulate before putting these on (no instructions included so just double checking)

I'm hoping the end up with 1.75-1.85" of lift over stock
 
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@Bannerman, @halo.f150 , or anyone else that's adjusted the preload on these:
I am adjusting mine on the bench (to have about 4-5 threads showing above the collar). I've loosened the clamping screw on the collar, set the coilover in a fixture I have, and then turned the collar using the supplied spanner. I just want to make sure that:
a) its fine / expected that the spring and lower spring perch turn with the adjusting collar all together as one (seems fine, but want to make sure)
b) there's nothing else I need to adjust, torque, or otherwise manipulate before putting these on (no instructions included so just double checking)

I'm hoping the end up with 1.75-1.85" of lift over stock
A) that’s fine. Put some grease or WD-40 on the threads to spin easier.

B) not that I remember other than to make sure you spin a full rotation at a time. That is to say leave the space in the collar facing out and such that you can still access the set screw while installed on the truck.
 
Also I netted 1.5” with basically 0-1 threads showing
 
Also I netted 1.5” with basically 0-1 threads showing
Holy crap - yeah, I started at 6 threads. Thinking that was like 1/3 of how they were shipped. I’m at like 3-inches over stock! Now, I’m sure it needs to settle a LITTLE but I think based on your experience I’m going to dial them down further. I can’t imagine what would happen if a guy put them on AS SHIPPED. Would love to end up about 1.75” over stock.
(Install went just fine. Even the UCA’s and ball joints. All pretty straightforward.)
 
Holy crap - yeah, I started at 6 threads. Thinking that was like 1/3 of how they were shipped. I’m at like 3-inches over stock! Now, I’m sure it needs to settle a LITTLE but I think based on your experience I’m going to dial them down further. I can’t imagine what would happen if a guy put them on AS SHIPPED. Would love to end up about 1.75” over stock.
(Install went just fine. Even the UCA’s and ball joints. All pretty straightforward.)
Did you get the LCA cam nuts?
 

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